Thicket

Protecting and Establishing Native Trees, Shrubs and Thicket Species

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Picture: Young American Hazelnut shrubs in spring with their leaves protected from deer grazing.

In the United States; wherever Wolves and Mountain Lions have become rare or absent, deer populations are at unnaturally high population densities. Whether planting on large scale rural land, park land, or in your front/back yard, there’s a high likelihood deer will evaluate your native plants, mostly through their noses, to determine their palatability. This part 1. post focuses on helping you establish native trees and shrubs effectively through protecting them from deer. Our Part 2. post will provide things you can do to increase the growth rate/establishment rate of native trees and shrubs.

Plants like Speciebush, Ninebark, Pawpaw, Black Aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) have high deer grazing tolerance (pictured below) which means there are chemicals in the leaves of the plant that make them unpalatable to deer. Other plants like American Hazelnut, Native Crabapples, and Winterberry Holly have lower deer grazing tolerance. They may have been moderately tolerant when deer populations were regulated by a wide abundance of natural predators. But in this modern day condition of unnaturally high deer population densities; some native plants can get completely defoliated by deer grazing, preventing them from growing or establishing.

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Here’s a solution to your Deer issues. For all native trees and shrubs, put a welded wire fence around them. Even though some native trees and shrubs don’t require them for deer grazing protection; the welded wire fences also protect against Buck rubbing which greatly damages the bark and living tissue (Cambium) of native trees and shrubs. Bucks rub young native trees and shrubs to sharpen their antlers, rubbing off the velvet layer to prepare for mating season combat with other bucks.

Large hardware stores like Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes sell rolls of 50 feet to 100 feet lengths of 4 feet tall welded wire fencing. Deer graze up to a height of around 4 feet, so these fences protect the native trees and shrubs from grazing fully within the first 4 feet. At that point the Native Tree or Shrub should out grow the deer grazing line and grow upward above the fence. A couple of years of growth over the deer grazing line of 4 feet, you may want to remove the fence and reuse on other new plantings. You can usually do this safely, but the trunks may still need fencing protection from Buck Rubbing. If you can tolerate the fence aesthetic, it’s best just to leave the cages on for a full 5 to 8 years allowing the native tree/shrub to get big enough to withstand deer grazing and buck rubbing. If you really don’t like the silver fencing aesthetic, the big box stores also offer the same fencing in Black or Green. Though the color coated welded wire fencing costs more, it will become more invisible in the landscape aesthetically.

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About 9.5 feet length of the 50 feet or 100 feet roll of welded wire fencing, will yield roughly a 3 feet wide diameter, circled fence. So a 50 foot roll will yield 5 fences and an 100 foot roll will yield between 10 to 11 3 foot diameter circled fences. Per foot, the 100 feet rolls are always cheaper than the 50 feet rolls.

Keep in mind, you can reuse these fences for the next 25 years. A 4 feet diameter is best for wide spreading shrubs like American Hazelnut, but plants that shoot upward like a tree, just need a 2 foot diameter circled fence with a length of 6.5 foot length of welded wire fence to be well protected. The 4 Prunus virginiana (Thicket Cherry) pictured above have closer to a 2 foot diameter, 6.5 foot length of welded wire fencing because they shoot upwards into a small tree. Thread a 2 or 1.5 foot long piece of rebar through the bottom rungs of the welded wire fence before hammering it halfway into the ground to support the fence. All of these materials are reusable long-term, and available at the big box stores such as Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes.

How to Close the Welded Wire Fence

To close the welded wire fence, watch the video above. You must learn how to close the welded wire fence before cutting them pieces from the 50 or 100 feet rolls. Alternatively you could close the fence with uv resistant zipties.

Watch the Video below to see how to establish Native Trees/Shrubs - The Mat (in the video) used around the Plant is important!

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Pollinator Traffic on Smooth Sumac - Rhus glabra

On a cloudy day in Early June, this Smooth Sumac thicket was full of native pollinators.

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra) was the most popular native plant with pollinators on this early June day. Many species of native flies including a bumblebee mimicking fly. Solitary bees and Wasps made up most of the other visitors.

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Whether you're considering the early spring blooms of Fragrant Sumac; the mid spring bloom of Staghorn Sumac, the Early Summer bloom of Smooth sumac, or the later summer blooms of Winged Sumac - you cannot go wrong with planting sumac species for pollinator support.

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The main condition native sumacs need to prosper is an abundance of sunlight. Fragrant Sumac is the only one of these listed sumac species that doesn't spread much through suckering. They all have reddish and orangish fall color. The two best and most sought sumacs by birds for their fruit are Fragrant Sumac and Winged Sumac. Fragrant Sumac fruits are taken early in the year, around late spring while Winged Sumac fruit are taken throughout the fall. All of these native Sumacs can be used for flavored drinks or as sumac spice. Staghorn sumac shoots can be peeled and eaten as a native vegetable. All of these species of sumac are adapted to dry open grassland conditions as well as soil that is seasonally saturated - but not wetlands.

Winged Sumac being mowed around to prevent it from spreading further.

To control Sumac suckering in the landscape, you can plant where it will be surrounded by lawn which allows you the opportunity to mow around preventing suckers from establishing.

Sumacs are known to host at least 50 native butterflies/moths caterpillars. This attracts a higher diversity and quantity of lepidopteran (moths/butterflies) to grasslands and fields where sumac is native to. Each Sumac species blooms at a time of nectar/pollen for the pollinator community. Fragrant Sumac blooms soon after Spicebush in the spring, before most plants are ready to bloom. Staghorn Sumac blooms in mid Spring, when the wildflowers of native grasslands are too few to rely on. Smooth Sumac blooms in early summer when the grassland wildflowers are just starting to gain blooming momentum and quantity. Then Winged Sumac waits until late summer during a dearth period within which summer droughts and heat waves have challenged the vitality of the landscape. It’s almost if these Sumac species have purposely chosen times of need to release their huge source of pollen and nectar. Sumac thickets either produce female - nectar bearing flowers or male - pollen bearing flowers. So when planting a sumac species - plant at least 5 to assure a mix of genders. Only the female - nectar bearing flowers will produce fruit.

Germination Tips: Naturally, wildfire stimulates mass germination of Sumac seeds, but understanding how much fire is needed to cause germination is an experiment I haven’t tried. The alternative method is acidic scarification which mimics what would happen to the seed if the fruit were consumed by an animal. Use retail strength sulfuric acid with chemical gloves and goggles to acid scarify sumac for 40 minutes. Then wash the seeds clean of the acid with a strainer. This process should happen in the fall or late summer when you collect the sumac fruit. Afterwards, outdoor cold-moist stratify the seed from the fall into the Spring before sowing in mid Spring.

Receive 40% off of our Native Plant Propagation Guide/Nursery Model book when purchased as a package. deal with either our Native Meadowscaping book or our Native Plant Agriculture book at this link.

Learn about what our Native Meadowscaping book has to offer here at this link.

Learn about what our Native Plant Agriculture Vol. 1 book has to offer here at this link.

Learn about what our Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model has to offer here at this link.

EXPECT 3 NATIVE PLANT EDUCATIONAL POSTS A WEEK AT THIS WEBSITE

Our 2022 Fall Native Plant Sale will have 1,600 native shrubs and trees available for shipping short or long distance and local pick up. Sign up to our email list below to be notified of this sale and the plant list.

Elderberry - Sambucus canadensis Profile

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a thicket species that thrives in permanently wet, seasonally wet, and average soil moisture conditions. The small fruits are medicinal and edible to humans when properly prepared. They’re also highly favored by a wide variety of native bird species. This thicket species is very vigorously growing, capable of growing 6 feet in one year after it’s established. They top out at 7 to 12 feet tall depending on the available moisture and surrounding competition. The blooms are born in early summer after Flowering Dogwood and the Shrub Dogwood species are finished blooming. Elderberry is primarily pollinated by short-tongued insects and small native solitary bees. In seasonally saturated or frequently saturated soils they grow well with Silky Dogwood, Gray Dogwood, Buttonbush, Ninebark, and shrub willow species. Wild growing Elderberry is a good indicator of at least moderately high soil moisture as it does not grow in drier soils. In landscape conditions, just with providing it with 2 inches of water during the summer droughts, you can get elderberry to grow in a wider range of conditions. This thicket species is adapted to partial shade as well as full sun. On river floodplains it is one of the only thicket species that can withstand the flooding waters carrying tree logs that destroy understory trees and shrubs. It survives by creating hollow branches that are easily regenerated after collision with flood-thrown logs.

Elderberries are used as an anti-viral treatment of illnesses. Science has proven that the medicinal compounds found in elderberries lessens the recovery time and severity of the flu virus and other viruses. The practice of using Elderberries as medicine originated with indigenous people within the native ranges of the Elderberry species. Today, elderberries have managed to become a small part of U.S. culinary practice and medicinal practice. You can find medicinal elderberry syrup in many health food stores. Cooking the berries to make jellies, syrup, or wine are the most common consumption routes of elderberries and cultivars have already been selected for larger berry sizes and/or flavors. These first cultivar selections of elderberry represent small gains over wild elderberries in size, but with more attention and time devoted to the cultivation of elderberries, they likely will increase more in yield and/or size per berry overtime. Elderberry commercial production has grown the quickest in Missouri where it is now the most profitable berry grown in the state.

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Above the native Elderberry Borer (Desmocerus palliatus) is pictured. Borers are a type of beetle that eats the pith, sapwood, and/or cambium of trees and shrubs. Native Borers are co-evolved with the native plants and don’t kill their host plants unlike the non-native Emerald Ash Borer that kills Ash trees. Technically the Elderberry Borer is a long horned beetle despite its common name. This beetles’ larvae develops by consuming the pith inside of the elderberry branches and roots.

Propagation (Cloning and Growing from Seed)

When exceptionally sized or yielding elderberry seedlings are found, cloning them is easy due to the rhizome production. Cutting into the elderberry thicket with a spade in the fall will expose fleshy whiteish rhizomes that can but cut into 4-5 inch pieces that will each become clones of the parent plant genetically. Taking these rhizomes and nursery propagating them into 25 gallon pots will make the rhizomes multiply after a full-growing season creating more clones of your selected Elderberry. They can also root through stem cuttings, and if you're not seeking clones; collect the seed and overwinter them in silty soil pot outside for the winter. Come early march; wash the silty soil away through a fine mesh strainer leaving the seeds behind. Sow the seeds in early march or your region's equivalent to early spring/late winter. The seeds will germinate by mid spring and can grow as large as 4 feet tall during their first season if provided with enough soil medium, fertilizer, water, and sunlight.

Receive 40% off of our Native Plant Propagation Guide/Nursery Model book when purchased as a package. deal with either our Native Meadowscaping book or our Native Plant Agriculture book at this link.

Learn about what our Native Meadowscaping book has to offer here at this link.

Learn about what our Native Plant Agriculture Vol. 1 book has to offer here at this link.

Learn about what our Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model has to offer here at this link.

EXPECT 3 NATIVE PLANT EDUCATIONAL POSTS A WEEK AT THIS WEBSITE

OUR 2022 FALL NATIVE PLANT SALE WILL HAVE 1,600 NATIVE SHRUBS AND TREES AVAILABLE FOR SHIPPING SHORT OR LONG DISTANCE AND LOCAL PICK UP. SIGN UP TO OUR EMAIL LIST BELOW TO BE NOTIFIED OF THIS SALE AND THE PLANT LIST.