Solomon Gamboa
Eastern Redbud Plant Profile and Appreciation
Eastern Redbud Plant Profile and Appreciation
Solomon Gamboa
A Native Vegetable you can Grow this Spring - ...
Native Plant Agriculture
Solomon Gamboa
Northern Pecans, Persimmons, and Passionflowers
Northern Pecans, Persimmons, and Passionflowers
Solomon Gamboa
The Myth of the Thicket-less Prairie
The Myth of the Thicket-less Prairie
Solomon Gamboa
One Way to Save Ash Tree Species – Creating ...

Ash trees can be maintained without insecticides, read more….

One Way to Save Ash Tree Species – Creating Conservation Plots
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Protecting and Establishing Native Trees, Shrubs and Thicket Species

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Picture: Young American Hazelnut shrubs in spring with their leaves protected from deer grazing.

In the United States; wherever Wolves and Mountain Lions have become rare or absent, deer populations are at unnaturally high population densities. Whether planting on large scale rural land, park land, or in your front/back yard, there’s a high likelihood deer will evaluate your native plants, mostly through their noses, to determine their palatability. This part 1. post focuses on helping you establish native trees and shrubs effectively through protecting them from deer. Our Part 2. post will provide things you can do to increase the growth rate/establishment rate of native trees and shrubs.

Plants like Speciebush, Ninebark, Pawpaw, Black Aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) have high deer grazing tolerance (pictured below) which means there are chemicals in the leaves of the plant that make them unpalatable to deer. Other plants like American Hazelnut, Native Crabapples, and Winterberry Holly have lower deer grazing tolerance. They may have been moderately tolerant when deer populations were regulated by a wide abundance of natural predators. But in this modern day condition of unnaturally high deer population densities; some native plants can get completely defoliated by deer grazing, preventing them from growing or establishing.

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Here’s a solution to your Deer issues. For all native trees and shrubs, put a welded wire fence around them. Even though some native trees and shrubs don’t require them for deer grazing protection; the welded wire fences also protect against Buck rubbing which greatly damages the bark and living tissue (Cambium) of native trees and shrubs. Bucks rub young native trees and shrubs to sharpen their antlers, rubbing off the velvet layer to prepare for mating season combat with other bucks.

Large hardware stores like Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes sell rolls of 50 feet to 100 feet lengths of 4 feet tall welded wire fencing. Deer graze up to a height of around 4 feet, so these fences protect the native trees and shrubs from grazing fully within the first 4 feet. At that point the Native Tree or Shrub should out grow the deer grazing line and grow upward above the fence. A couple of years of growth over the deer grazing line of 4 feet, you may want to remove the fence and reuse on other new plantings. You can usually do this safely, but the trunks may still need fencing protection from Buck Rubbing. If you can tolerate the fence aesthetic, it’s best just to leave the cages on for a full 5 to 8 years allowing the native tree/shrub to get big enough to withstand deer grazing and buck rubbing. If you really don’t like the silver fencing aesthetic, the big box stores also offer the same fencing in Black or Green. Though the color coated welded wire fencing costs more, it will become more invisible in the landscape aesthetically.

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About 9.5 feet length of the 50 feet or 100 feet roll of welded wire fencing, will yield roughly a 3 feet wide diameter, circled fence. So a 50 foot roll will yield 5 fences and an 100 foot roll will yield between 10 to 11 3 foot diameter circled fences. Per foot, the 100 feet rolls are always cheaper than the 50 feet rolls.

Keep in mind, you can reuse these fences for the next 25 years. A 4 feet diameter is best for wide spreading shrubs like American Hazelnut, but plants that shoot upward like a tree, just need a 2 foot diameter circled fence with a length of 6.5 foot length of welded wire fence to be well protected. The 4 Prunus virginiana (Thicket Cherry) pictured above have closer to a 2 foot diameter, 6.5 foot length of welded wire fencing because they shoot upwards into a small tree. Thread a 2 or 1.5 foot long piece of rebar through the bottom rungs of the welded wire fence before hammering it halfway into the ground to support the fence. All of these materials are reusable long-term, and available at the big box stores such as Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes.

How to Close the Welded Wire Fence

To close the welded wire fence, watch the video above. You must learn how to close the welded wire fence before cutting them pieces from the 50 or 100 feet rolls. Alternatively you could close the fence with uv resistant zipties.

Watch the Video below to see how to establish Native Trees/Shrubs - The Mat (in the video) used around the Plant is important!

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Eastern Redbud Plant Profile and Appreciation

Redbud

Redbud trees (Cercis canadensis) reach 15-25 ft. tall and provide one of the most stunning displays of native spring blooms. The bright pink flowers are situated directly along the trunk and branches of the Redbud, unlike other flowering trees who hold their blooms out with a small leafstalk called a petiole. Redbuds, along with other early-blooming thicket species, fuel the newly emerged Queen Bumblebees as they begin to build their colonies for the coming year. They also attract carpenter bees, and other solitary native bees. Their main value ecologically is being a powerhouse for attracting native bees in the spring, particularly on days above 65 degrees and at least somewhat sunny.

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The Eastern Redbud naturally grows on stream bank edges, prairie edges, open woodlands, wood edges, canopy gaps within forests, and savanna ecosystems. It needs partial to full-sun to thrive, and fits well up against the sides of 1 or 2 story homes. When using redbuds for invasive plant removal during replantings you can utilize its ability to grow out of rocky dry, or moist soil, all the same. It will seed itself around over time, as native pollinators help it bear thin bean pods through the frenzy of pollination that occurs in April, as long as you initially plant at least 2 to cross-pollinate each other. If you’re inexperienced, redbud is a good beginners’ plant. Squirrels will eat some the pods in August, before tree-nut crops begin ripening.

The tree naturally hollows out fairly quickly, over the course of 25-35 years, providing nooks and crannies for wildlife to live inside. 2 rules of thumb, give redbuds at least 4 hours of sunlight and don’t plant this tree in wetlands, it doesn’t thrive in long-term saturated soils. The actual base of the tree can easily live for over 35 years, by pruning the old-quickly decaying wood back to the main leaders allowing new heartwood and sapwood on the branches to develop. Otherwise the original trunks will fall apart after 30 to 40 years on average as a very quickly growing and climaxing small tree.

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Atheistically, the best thicket species to plant with Redbuds are native Plums as they get about the same size and they bloom at the same time of spring providing a contrast of pink blooms and white blooms (from native plums).

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Thanks for reading! Written by Solomon Gamboa, Author and Owner of Indigenous Landscapes.

Late April - 3 now in bloom Native Plants (Aronia, Golden Alexander, Flowering Dogwood)

Aronia melanocarpa - Black Aronia - Chokeberry attracting small, solitary native bees.

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Black Aronia aka Black Chokeberry (Aronia Melanocarpa) - this native thicket species ranges from 4 feet to 10 feet tall depending on soil/climate/average rainfall. Because it blooms in mid-spring it supplies early emerging native bees as well as feeding Queen Bumblebees as they raise their first set of Worker Bees who are in their larvae stage. Because the fruit doesn't taste amazing, I refer to it as a medicinal fruit for humans or wildlife food. The medicinal effects of Aronia for humans are well scientifically documented. The nearly off the chart levels of anti-oxidants and other phytochmeicals (chemicals produced by plants) have shown to have positive effects on blood sugar levels, blood pressure, anti/preventative-cancer effects, Anti-inflammatory effects and more. In my household, I've gotten my spouse to use a tablespoon of Aronia fruit powder in their smoothies 5 days a week which has decreased their plantar fasciitis pain by 90% and slowed progressing eczema symptoms. Google the science of Aronia berries for more info! P.S. the fruit are also beloved by native birds and native mammals.

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Golden Alexander and Heart-Leaf Alexander (Zizia species) - these early blooming native wildflowers of the carrot family start out as small plants, but their ambition withholds a bright future in gardens, broken forests, savannas, and meadows. In native meadow's we've created ourselves, we've observed Golden Alexander increasing year by year, but not in an invasive manner. They reseed effectively and hold their ground well against most prairie/meadow plant. The early blooming attracts mostly small spring emerging native bees. Both Golden Alexanders have moderate grazing resistance to Deer and Rabbits. Heart-Leaf Alexander has higher shade tolerance than Golden Alexander, as it can be found in the dappled sunlight of broken canopy woodlands. Though Golden Alexander’s shade tolerance is not easily out down as it can persist in partially shaded Savanna environments. Golden Alexander has a higher wet soil tolerance than Heart-Leaf Alexander while Heart-Leaf has a higher dry soil tolerance than Golden Alexander though both are very adaptable to gardens. Caterpillars of the butterflies Black Swallowtail (Papilio polyxenes asterius) and Ozark Swallowtail (Papilio joanae ) feed on the leaves.

Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) - Flowering Dogwoods are one of the more well known native plants and are fairly available in the nursery industry throughout its native range. If the cultivars are the only ones available to you, then choose two different cultivars so that they can cross pollinate successfully to bear the high quality fruit which ripens in the fall and is a favorite for wildlife. Flowering Dogwoods bloom soon after Eastern Redbuds and Native Plums bloom. Naturally they would occur in forest canopy openings, broken/open woodlands, savanna thickets, and Eastern prairie thickets. In modern times the most common naturally occurring populations are found on edges of woods, but due to the uprising of invasive shrubs and invasive vines colonizing wood edges this niche is becoming less and less viable for Flowering Dogwood and other native thicket species. In the residential landscape, they grow well in full-sun within soil in neighborhoods at least 30 to 40 years in age. Newer developed neighborhoods have more recently disturbed soils that haven't had time to recover, and Flowering Dogwoods may struggle in those poor soil conditions. If planting in newer neighborhoods, choose to plant them on the Eastern or Western side of a building such as a detached garage or home. This will give them a part day's worth of sun which will benefit their health. In neighborhoods over 30 years in age, they'll likely thrive in full-sun within their native range and especially if during historically bad droughts they are given a couple of inches of water every 10 days or so.

This article is only available here at Indigescapes.com, not Facebook. To make sure you don’t miss our website articles like this one, sign up for our email list at the bottom of this webpage and you’ll receive these free educational Native Plant articles weekly through email.

To fast track your Native Plant Restoration knowledge, consider one of our native plant educational books here: Indigescapes.com/Ourbooks - the shipping is cheaper if all 3 books are purchased in one order as opposed to separate orders.

Thanks for reading! This was written by Solomon Gamboa, Author and Owner of Indigenous Landscapes.

Identifying and Propagating the Native - Red Mulberry (Morus rubra)

Red Mulberry White Mulberry

Disclaimer: This article is not about saving the absolutely weedy invasive plant known as White Mulberry (Morus alba). The native Red Mulberry is much less aggressive, and does not invade the landscape or ecosystem.

Red Mulberry (Morus rubra) is one of the most widely documented native plants which would make one think it’s one of the most common native plants. In actuality many of the documentations are likely the invasive White Mulberry (Morus alba) introduced in the 1800’s. White Mulberry epicenters are nearly always at metropolitans where the invasive trees were established first for the Mulberry silkworm hosts for the production of silk fiber. White Mulberry, which has a red fruit like Red Mulberry, now pervades various landscapes and environments throughout the U.S. Red Mulberry is much less common, and may suffer from hybridization where climate promotes the flowering of each species overlapping. In the Midwest and Uppersouth White Mulberry blooms weeks before Red Mulberry which lowers the frequency of hybridization. The same case may repeat in other regions. The easiest way to tell the difference between Red Mulberry and White Mulberry is the leaves. Red Mulberry leaves are not reflective or glossy and they are rough to the touch whereas White Mulberry are glossy, more glabrous and smoother to the touch.

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The first 4 photos in the above gallery are from Horticulturist Jimmy Strathmann in Indiana.

In neighborhoods Red Mulberry has many opportunities to fit into the landscape as a medium sized tree popular with wildlife and humans because of its berry production. Due to its smaller size, it’s even safe to plant Red Mulberry on the West and East sides of houses to cool down the walls. Its limbs will rarely get to the size and height needed to become a threat to falling on a roof. In Native Plant Agriculture Red Mulberry is both a fruit crop and a leaf crop. They can be coppiced to control height, and be used as a perennial leaf crop in native agricultural systems. The large edible leaves are best cooked if they’re to be eaten in higher quantities, and they lend themselves to wrapping other foods inside of them. Red Mulberry is a PH Generalist able to grow in acidic soils as well as alkaline soils though it is more dominant in acidic soils. The fruit ripening overlaps with the time that Serviceberries are ripening so if you’re trying to create less competition for serviceberry fruits - planting clusters of Red Mulberry will help spread the competition out. Plant at least in groups of 3, 4 or 5 so as to heighten the chance that you’ll plant at least 1 female and 1 male tree as males do not create fruit. Recommended as a house cooling tree. Applicable to all hillside aspects in the northern portion of its range; N,E,W, and S if the soil is deep - or flatter ground. Applicable to NE, N, NW, and E in the southern portion of its range - or flatter ground. Height is 30’ to 45’ typically, but up to 55’. Wind Pollinated.

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Saving Red Mulbberries

In our ecosystems, Red Mulberry is being replaced by invasive White Mulberries (Morus alba). In urban forests, White Mulberry outnumbers Red Mulberry 1 to 1,000 in most cities and suburbs. Where we find the true Red Mulberry is within large suburban or rural county and state parks, or nature preserves on wood edges and large forest canopy openings. Gaining Permission from these entities is ideal for collecting fruit to propagate and repopulate Red Mulberry. Once you’ve found Red Mulberry, observe it’s bloom period, which should be after White Mulberry. If in your region it blooms weeks after White Mulberry, they’re more likely to be unhybridized. In our experience, we’ve only seen 1 single tree that looked to show hybrid expressions of Red Mulberry and White Mulberry so it is likely less common than reported. Whether you’re most interested in the edible fruit and leaves for human food production or you’re interested in preserving pure Red Mulberry and supporting wildlife - propagating this tree is a worthy project. When planting Red Mulberry, do your best to removal all nearby White Mulberry - even if they’re in your neighbors yard at least attempt to get permission to remove. You can also girdle them and apply an herbicide to the girdle ring if it isn’t in danger of falling on structures. Review the following propagation guide when you’ve found a fruiting Red Mulberry.

Propagation Tips: Collect fruit around the same time as serviceberry ripens in early summer. Crush fruit in hand, and allow the pulp to decompose within sand or a soil medium over the summer and fall outdoors within a container with drainage. Continue winter stratification in that container before sowing the seeds with the sand or soil medium in the spring compressed onto the surface. With proper pot size (.5 gallon or 1 gallon) and fertilizer they should reach at least 4 feet as first year saplings.

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Why and How to Establish a Patch of Rattlesnake Master

Rattlesnake Master (Eryngium yuccifolium) is a perennial prairie plant in the carrot family (Umbelliferae) with striking blue-green-silver foliage and a unique sphere-shaped bloom. Rattlesnake Master can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, from seasonally saturated to moist or drier rocky or sandy soil. Being a prairie plant, Rattlesnake Master requires at lest 6 hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. The flowers attract a large variety of pollinators including long-tongued bees, short-tongued bees, wasps, flies, butterflies, skippers, moths, and beetles. Rattlesnake Master is sure to attract pollinators you’ve never seen before.

Its dominant root system makes it best planted in meadows or mass plantings where it's given good root competition from its neighbors. Otherwise it tends to get too big and floppy in pollinator gardens with less competition. When you install a native plant garden; accompanying the individual potted plants with a fall-seeded native seed mix will provide enough nutrient and water competition in the soil (root competition) to keep the plants upright and reduce flopping. This is a long lived plant in prairie communities and prairie plantings, capable of lasting long into grass domination, like Slender Mountain Mint. Grass domination often happens when there are no grazers grazing the prairie grass (Bison, Elk). Rattlesnake master is has good permanence and can survive when most wildflowers have succumbed to grass dominance. The texture and unique colored leaves makes it somewhat golden winter color, forming a valuable summer and winter aesthetic.

Pollinator Garden Positioning of Companion Plants

The following paragraph will help you position companion plants with Rattlesnake Master in Pollinator Gardens. In front should translate to being planted on the Southeast, South, or Southwest side of Rattlesnake Master. Behind translates to being planted on the Northeast, North, Northwest side of Culver’s Root. And beside is self-explanatory - East or West side of Rattlesnake Master

Blue Wild Indigo and White Wild Indigo - behind, Golden Alexander - beside or in front, Sand Coreopsis - in front, Penstemon species - in front, beside, or behind, Butterflyweed - in front or beside, Yellow Crownbeard - behind, Nodding Onion - in front, Purple Coneflower - beside, in front, or behind, Slender Mountain Mint - in front or beside, Royal Catchfly - beside or behind, Hoary Vervain - in front, beside, or behind, Rudbeckia fulgida - in front, beside, or behind, Prairie Dock - behind or beside, Mistflower - behind, in front, or beside, Dwarf Goldenrod - beside or in front, Showy Goldenrod - behind or beside, Aromatic aster - beside or in front, Obedient Plant - behind, Little bluestem - in front, beside, or behind, prairie dropseed - in front, beside or behind.

Germination Tips for Plugs: Soak in iced tap water for 36 hours, and cold stratify for 50 to 60 days then surface sow - compress into surface or burry 1/8th inch.

Creating a Patch of Rattlesnake Master

To create a patch of Rattlesnake master purchase 1 to 2 ounces of seed online. Work in the summer to prepare the area you'd like to establish by clearing the vegetation completely by fall using your preferred method. Mix the Rattlesnake Master seed with 1/4th ounce of Biennial Black Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) seed. This short-lived Black Eyed Susan will act as a ground cover (next year). This amount of seed is good for an 100 to 500 square foot patch/bed. Seed both species together over your prepared ground in late fall. Use a half 5 gallon bucket of dry sand to carry the seed helping you to spread it evenly over the plot. Both species will vegetate the land the following spring/summer as seedlings. Feel free to add seed from the companion plant list above to make the patch more diverse.

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Written by: Author/Owner of Indigenous Landscapes Solomon Doe

Learn about Culver's Root ( Veronicastrum virginicum )

Culver’s Root in a Native Meadow Installation

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Culver's Root (Veronicastrum virginicum) is a perennial plant of prairies and savannas that rises to 3 to 5 feet tall when mature; depending on soil moisture, surrounding competition, and sunlight exposure. It produces wand-like flower spikes that attract bumblebees, mason bees, green metallic bees, masked bees, sphecid wasps, butterflies, moths, syrphid flies and beetle species. In bloom, similar to Rattlesnake master - it attracts a very wide variety of pollinators. Watching both Rattlesnake Master and Culver’s Root in bloom is a sure way of encountering pollinators you’ve never seen before. This plant is adapted to seasonally wet soils as well as seasonally dry soils with intermediate drought tolerance.

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Culver's Root is subject to little mammal grazing and doesn't commonly suffer greatly from insect damage. This is a long-lived species that can survive to some extent in prairies with minimal disturbance (un-grazed prairies). The whorled, upright foliage gives this plant an excellent form in the summer prairie garden or along trails in meadow plantings. The architecture alone of Culver’s root inside or outside of bloom makes it worthy of it’s pricey tag in seeds per ounce. Also the seeds per ounce is high which makes the price per seed lower than most species. If lacking the funds to seed it at a good ratio (expensive seed), then grow 10 to 40 plugs of it per half acre to strategically insert into your meadow planting. In pollinator gardens they assume a moderately large width in their maturity; reducing the amount you have to plant to create a good aesthetic effect. 

COMPANION PLANTS OF CULVER’S ROOT

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Pollinator Garden Positioning of Companion Plants

The following paragraph will help you position the above pictured companion plants with Culver’s Root in Pollinator Gardens. In front should translate to being planted on the Southeast, South, or Southwest side of Culver’s Root. Behind translates to being planted on the Northeast, North, Northwest side of Culver’s Root. And beside is self-explanatory - East or West side of Culver’s Root.

Blue Wild Indigo & White Wild Indigo - beside or in front. Ohio Spiderwort - beside or in front. Common Milkweed - beside or behind. Early Sunflower - beside or behind. Wild Bergamot - beside or behind. Wild Senna - behind. Royal Catchfly - in front. Grey headed Coneflower - beside or behind. Prairie Dock - in front. Rosinweed - behind or beside. Whorled Rosinweed - behind. Tall Coreopsis - behind. Eutrochium maculatum - behind. Tall Boneset - behind or beside. Common Sneezeweed - in front. Purple Headed Sneezeweed in front. New England Aster - beside or behind. Tall Ironweed - Behind.

Germination Tips for Plugs: Cold moist Stratify for 30 - 40 days then surface sow - compress into surface of medium/soil when sowing.

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3 Giant Native Wildflowers

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This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

The first 4 pictures above depict Hollowstem Joe Pyeweed (Eutrochium fistulosum) which grows 6 to 10 feet tall depending on sunlight exposure, soil fertility, and soil moisture. It's native to wetlands and other environment with seasonally wet or permanently wet soil conditions. This Joe Pyeweed is also adapted to moderate moisture conditions helping it to adapt to garden conditions. Essentially all of the organic matter that large herbaceous plants like Joe Pyeweed create above ground gets broken down and consumed by soil bacteria, fungi and small insects. So the more biomass (organic matter) a native plant creates - the more biomass is converted into energy for living organisms whom's energy works its way up the food chain. This plant's flowers are also one of the most popular for supporting native pollinators. If you want to grow Joe Pyeweed species in somewhat drier soils, just apply 2-3 inches of extra water per month throughout the summer months.

The last two pictures in the above gallery are of “Joe Pyeweed” - Eutrochium maculatum. This is a more northern Joe Pyeweed which is also much shorter than the aforementioned Hollowstem Joe Pyeweed Eutrochium fistulosum. The bloom shape is also flatter in comparison. If you’re within its native range, this Joe Pyeweed is friendlier to garden settings due to its average height of 4 to 6 feet tall.

Germination Tips: For all species of Joe Pyeweed, Cold Moist Stratify for at least 45 days before sowing on the surface in early to mid spring. Compress the seed into the medium. They will germinate within 10 days if the surface is kept moist.

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Tall Coreopsis (Coreopsis tripteris) is a prairie and savanna plant adapted to seasonally wet soils as well as drier soils under intense root competition from other plants. The small flowers are most favored by small native solitary bees and small butterflies. This is one of the longest lived plants of the Coreopsis genus. It's deep root system and robust growth allow it compete long-term with other aggressive plants native to the ecosystem known as the Tallgrass prairie such as Big Bluestem and Indian Grass. It ranges 5 to 9 feet in height depending on available resources. Planted in dense vegetation within gardens, it may have enough root competition to stand up straight. It’s best to never water this plant within gardens or else risk it flopping . As a background plant in pollinator gardens it adds a wispy fine textured tall layer that catches each breeze that passes animating the garden. If planted on a wood edge or the side of a house where it receives shade, it will lean away from the wood edge or building structure making it more prone to flopping. So it’s best within gardens to have it planted in full-sun away from shading objects such as trees and buildings.

Germination Tips: Moist Cold Stratify for 45-55 days before sowing on the surface in early to mid spring. Compress the seed into the medium. They will germinate within 10 days if the surface is kept moist.

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Pasture Thistle (Cirsium discolor) is a native biennial wildflower that explodes with growth during it's second year of life. The stems will commonly grow to heights over 7 feet tall, attracting caterpillars, aphids, and other plant consuming insects to take advantage of its large biomass. The flowers are of some of the most popular with native bumble bees, solitary bees, and butterflies. When it comes to bumblebees, there aren't too many plants to bloom in the late summer that are as popular as native Thistle plants. The seeds a highly favored by Goldfinches. Pasture thistle is adapted to moderate moisture as well as fairly dry soil conditions. The first year root is an edible, native plant agricultural crop. Harvest it like Evening Primrose through seeding it in the spring within a bed of itself, fostering the basal rosettes throughout the year, before digging it up in the fall or winter.

Germination Tips for plugs: Cold Moist Stratify for 40-50 days before sowing 1/4th inch below the surface and compressing the medium in the spring time. Keep surface moist during germination period. Plant the resulting plug in early summer with plenty of water during the establishment period.

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Black Raspberry - Rubus occidentalis Profile

Black Raspberry

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Black Raspberries, like Fox Grapes and Muscadine Grapes, are one of the few native fruit crops that have been used in modern agricultural systems. There are even a few cultivars that are pure Black Raspberry, non-hybridized, such as ‘Jewel’, ‘MacBlack’, and ‘Munger’. Black Raspberries don’t require a full day’s sun exposure to yield well, adaptable to as low as 6 hours of direct sunlight for respectable yields. If you’re planning on growing them for wildlife food, they will attract mostly native birds in the early summer during their fruiting period.

Yellow Warbler

A Yellow Warbler (Setophaga petechia) feeds its nestlings within a Black Raspberry Thicket

Savanna Planting Pattern for Native Plant Agriculture

The best biologically productivity with a Black Raspberry acreage is to infuse competition friendly savanna trees at 10 to 15 trees per acre. These could be Shagbark Hickory, Red Hickory, Persimmon, Black Cherry, Black Walnut, or Honeylocust. Persimmon, Black Cherry, and Honeylocust carrying higher stocking rates per acre (15), and Black Walnut and Hickory carrying lower stocking rates per acre (10) for proper sun exposure. The combination of the spaced out native trees and thick undergrowth of Black Raspberry would result in a high diversity of native insects and their predators co-existing in the planting.

Planting in the Residential Landscape

Black Raspberries perform best on Eastern, Western, or Northern faced slopes or flatter ground in the home landscape. If you choose to put them up against your house, they will tolerate every orientation except the Northside of your home as there isn’t enough sun for them on the Northside. They tolerate full sun within average moisture soils or higher moisture soils. They are also very tolerant of partial shade. The key to vigorous Black Raspberry growth and fruit production is providing them with 2 inches of water during exceptional summer droughts. Because they fruit in early summer before mid summer droughts take place; watering during the mid summer makes the more vigorous the following year as they’re able to store up more energy through drought-free photosynthesis. The thorns on Black Raspberry aren’t as formidable as wild black berries, so berry picking can be a bit more peaceful with this species. Still the thorns provide enough defense for the Black Raspberry thickets to be chosen by nesting native birds such as the Yellow Warbler Pictured above.

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The Rubus genus is widely used as insect host plants and their flowers are an essential nectar/pollen source in the spring landscape of moist prairies, fields, wetland margins, savannas, and open woodlands. They bloom at the same time as many forest spring ephemerals that are in decline from White Tail Deer overpopulation, deforestation, and invasive shrub encroachment. So Black Raspberries help buffer the resources of early foraging pollinators with their highly accessible flowers during the mid spring. Blackberries and Raspberry species are known to support over 150 native moth/butterfly caterpillars. So not only do they provide this essential mid spring pollen/nectar - they also produce caterpillars throughout the summer that are forged for by native birds.

Germination Tips: Black Raspberries require acid scarification to germinate. This mimics the process the seeds would undergo if they were eaten by an animal. After thoroughly crushing the fruit up, exposing the seeds, expose the fruit/seed mash to Sulfuric Acid for 25 minutes. Use retail strength Sulfuric Acid with goggles and chemical gloves and rinse this acid from the seed/fruit mash after the 25 minutes of submersion. Then place the seeds in silty soil within a pot, buried halfway underground. This would happen in Early summer for Black Raspberry as that’s when the fruit ripen. Let the pot sit outdoors all summer, fall, and winter. Then in spring time rinse the silty soil away with a strainer thin enough to catch the seeds, separating them from the silty soil. Sow the seeds in early spring/late winter and expect germination by late spring. This process can also be used for Blackberry species which mature later in the summer.

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The Sunny Secret of Mayapple - Podophyllum peltatum

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

It's been thought that all colonies of Mayapple growing in sunny fields were the result of deforestation and then persistence by mayapples in the new, full-sun condition. We've found evidence that Mayapples can in fact spread into full sun conditions through animal dispersal of their fruit which are beloved by box turtles, foxes, coyotes, raccoon, bear, and possum. The three colonies in the first picture are growing in a Tallgrass prairie planting on land that was most recently farmland - not forested. This area has been deforested for well over 100 years at least, where in the meantime it existed as farmland which would be difficult for Mayapples to persist in.

Reproducing in Full-Sun

Another indicator that these Mayapples spread through natural seed dispersal into the open land is a new young colony in the second picture. This colony of just 4 to 5 sprouts has to be no older than 4 years of age due to the small size of its colony. This demonstrates that these mayapples are reproducing in the Tallgrass prairie planting, likely via animal seed dispersal. The great news for gardeners, is if you find Mayapple fruit/seed you can propagate them in full-sun and plan on planting them in full-sun within its native range - or as a full shade temporary ground cover.

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Full-Sun Adaptation

Mayapples are able to successful competing against aggressive prairie grass and Canadian goldenrod in these pictures because of their ephemeral nature. They sprout as early as a month before the warm season grasses and goldenrod, and their dense leaves stunt the emerging vegetation below them temporarily. This gives them enough time to bloom and produce fruit before being overgrown by the Tallgrass prairie planting. By the time they're over grown, they're still receiving more sunlight in the understory of the field than they would in a forest, which makes them quite adapted to full-sun growing conditions. The prairies they were growing in had a condition of moderate moisture. The blooms offer an abundance of nectar and pollen to Queen Bumblebees, solitary bees, and Carpenter Bees while the fruit when fully ripe is edible to humans and native mammals. Mayapples are deer and rabbit proof due to their toxic leaves.

We encourage you to spread Mayapples throughout the landscape for wildlife and/or human use. The following germination tips will help you achieve that.

Germination Tips: The seeds of Mayapple best germinate when given the summer, fall, and winter to stratify. In the Summer time when Mayapples are ripe, scoop out the seeds of the fruit. Place the seeds in a small pot full of sand or silty sand, and leave it in the shade throughout the year. The following early-spring, sow all of the sand with the seeds into pots in full sun. Expect germination within 4 to 6 weeks.

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3 Native Roses and their Biological Powers

Native Rose Bloom Bee

A native solitary bee on the native Climbing Rose - Rosa setigera

Native Roses are native to nearly every county of the United States and they extend into Central America and Canada as well. Because ornamental rose pests have been extensively studied, it is known that native roses can support at least 135 different species of native moths/butterflies as host plants. This number makes it one of the best native shrubs for acting as native moth/butterfly host plants. Native Roses aren’t finicky like ornamental roses. Instead they are vigorous and quite competitive.

What stands out amongst native roses though is their ability to support bees. They only produce pollen, not nectar, but this pollen is heavily sought out by solitary bees and bumble bees while in bloom. The fragrant, simple pink flowers range from light pink to a darker hot pink attracting native bees from far and wide. Look for Native Roses while they are in bloom from mid spring into early summer.

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Range Maps created by BONAP

Outside of deep shade of forests, there's a native rose species for every condition.

Rosa carolina (Pasture Rose) is very much adapted to grasslands, able to withstand prairie fire and sprout back up from the ground to bloom again the following year. Very Drought Tolerant.

Rosa setigera (Climbing Rose) can grow in grasslands as well as wetlands as stand alone shrubs or ascending shrubs climbing up into taller thicket species and small trees. Drought Tolerant and Wet Soil tolerant.

Rosa palustris (Swamp Rose) is most adapted to wetlands. It's able to grow in a few inches of water, permanently saturated soil, or just seasonally saturated soils. Very Wet Soil tolerant.

If you match the native rose species to the proper condition listed above, you’ll never have to water them as they are well adapted.


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In addition to being super supportive of native bees and great host plants; they are also excellent nesting habitat for smaller native birds due to the thorns and the fruit they produce is consumed during the winter when other food sources are exhausted. While Native roses offer great nesting protection from native mammals, native snakes have tough enough skin to rub past the thorns and prey on bird nests.

Native Birds and Native Mammals use the fruit in mid to late winter. Compared to the invasive multi-flora rose, native rose hips are at least 3 times as large. Between their insect hosting abilities, pollinator support, nesting attractiveness, and winter consumed fruit, you can’t go wrong by planting native roses in your landscape.

Germination Tips: In the picture above is enough Climbing Rose Hips collected for nursery - scale propagation. For your own landscape use, just collecting 5 - 10 fruits will be sufficient.  Separate the seeds from the fruit and place them in a pot with silty soil outdoors for the fall/winter. Strain the silty soil out in the spring, leaving just the seeds behind. Sow 3 to 4 seeds per pot in early spring; they’ll germinate by mid spring.

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Pollinator Traffic on Smooth Sumac - Rhus glabra

On a cloudy day in Early June, this Smooth Sumac thicket was full of native pollinators.

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra) was the most popular native plant with pollinators on this early June day. Many species of native flies including a bumblebee mimicking fly. Solitary bees and Wasps made up most of the other visitors.

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Whether you're considering the early spring blooms of Fragrant Sumac; the mid spring bloom of Staghorn Sumac, the Early Summer bloom of Smooth sumac, or the later summer blooms of Winged Sumac - you cannot go wrong with planting sumac species for pollinator support.

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The main condition native sumacs need to prosper is an abundance of sunlight. Fragrant Sumac is the only one of these listed sumac species that doesn't spread much through suckering. They all have reddish and orangish fall color. The two best and most sought sumacs by birds for their fruit are Fragrant Sumac and Winged Sumac. Fragrant Sumac fruits are taken early in the year, around late spring while Winged Sumac fruit are taken throughout the fall. All of these native Sumacs can be used for flavored drinks or as sumac spice. Staghorn sumac shoots can be peeled and eaten as a native vegetable. All of these species of sumac are adapted to dry open grassland conditions as well as soil that is seasonally saturated - but not wetlands.

Winged Sumac being mowed around to prevent it from spreading further.

To control Sumac suckering in the landscape, you can plant where it will be surrounded by lawn which allows you the opportunity to mow around preventing suckers from establishing.

Sumacs are known to host at least 50 native butterflies/moths caterpillars. This attracts a higher diversity and quantity of lepidopteran (moths/butterflies) to grasslands and fields where sumac is native to. Each Sumac species blooms at a time of nectar/pollen for the pollinator community. Fragrant Sumac blooms soon after Spicebush in the spring, before most plants are ready to bloom. Staghorn Sumac blooms in mid Spring, when the wildflowers of native grasslands are too few to rely on. Smooth Sumac blooms in early summer when the grassland wildflowers are just starting to gain blooming momentum and quantity. Then Winged Sumac waits until late summer during a dearth period within which summer droughts and heat waves have challenged the vitality of the landscape. It’s almost if these Sumac species have purposely chosen times of need to release their huge source of pollen and nectar. Sumac thickets either produce female - nectar bearing flowers or male - pollen bearing flowers. So when planting a sumac species - plant at least 5 to assure a mix of genders. Only the female - nectar bearing flowers will produce fruit.

Germination Tips: Naturally, wildfire stimulates mass germination of Sumac seeds, but understanding how much fire is needed to cause germination is an experiment I haven’t tried. The alternative method is acidic scarification which mimics what would happen to the seed if the fruit were consumed by an animal. Use retail strength sulfuric acid with chemical gloves and goggles to acid scarify sumac for 40 minutes. Then wash the seeds clean of the acid with a strainer. This process should happen in the fall or late summer when you collect the sumac fruit. Afterwards, outdoor cold-moist stratify the seed from the fall into the Spring before sowing in mid Spring.

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The Biology of 3 Native Edible Plants - PawPaw - Passionflower - Pecan

Top Left - PawPaw Thicket with Wingstem. Top Right - Large Sliced Pawpaw Fruit. Bottom Left PawPaw Fruit. Bottom Right - Open Grown Tree 20 feet tall.

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Pawpaws (Asimina triloba) require a moderately amount of soil moisture to be highly productive. In a soil high in clay or sand content, Pawpaw can establish but will do so in a stunted manner especially if it’s competing with older tree roots and thick herbaceous plant growth for water. Climax Pawpaw production is within silty alluvial soiled bottomlands or floodplains parallel with rivers, silty rich and deep bedrock soils (residuum) or on glacial outwash soils of the glaciated regions in the U.S. They are a generalist as far as PH of soil, able to grow in PH as low as the upper 4 range and as high as +8 PH. Try to keep pawpaw production on slopes of less than 10%. Of they are to be on steeper slopes, choose a slope that faces East, North East, North, or Northwest where the soil temperature will be cooler during the summer. Pawpaws grow best on flatter topography. They’re fully tolerant of saturated winter soils that occur in seasonally high water table soils. These type of soils are found in neighborhoods within which most houses don’t have basements due to the flat poorly drained topography.

In forests, PawPaws establish as small understory trees that create suckers that await the falling of a canopy tree. Once a Canopy tree has fall, the PawPaws accelerate their growth rate to temporarily dominate the mid story within the canopy opening. This is when they become fruitful in forests. In open conditions, PawPaws can become fruitful in as little as 5 years from planting. If you want a fast growing PawPaw in your landscape, do it the favor of providing 3 to 4 inches of water per month during the summer months in the case of drought. Mowing around Pawpaws prevents it from suckering into colonies, forming single trees. Suckers cannot cross pollinate each other and create fruit. You need two pawpaws born from two different seedlings (genetically distinct) to cross pollinate and create fruit. If you’re dealing with cultivars, you need two different cultivars for fruit.

Germination Tips: Extract the seeds from the fruits. Place the seeds in a pot full of silty soil (not clayey or sandy). Leave this pot outdoors all fall and winter - buried halfway underground so it is not subjected to the coldest temperatures. In early spring, strain the silty soil from the seeds by using a hose on a jet setting and a strainer; washing the silty soil away leaving only the seeds. Sow in early spring and expect germination by mid Summer. Grow the seedings in full-sun or partial shade (either). Full-sun for the seedlings will result in larger seedlings than those grown in partial shade.

The Zebra Swallowtail is one of the better known insects whose larval form host on PawPaw (bottom). Sapsuckers maintain holes (top) in Pawpaws and other species to utilize the sap. They also consume native insects that are attracted to the sap holes and that are found elsewhere.

(This native Passionflower is being perfectly pollinated by a Carpenter Bee species (Xylocopa sp.) Resulting Fruit pictured in the bottom right.

This native Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) is a rhizomatous native vine that offers medicinal, edible, fragrant, aesthetic, and pollinator attractive qualities. When ripe the fruits’ insides will be full of juicy translucent pulp sacs that contain flat black seeds. The pulp sacs are designed to be swallowed whole by mammals with the seeds inside, so that the seeds pass through the digestive system and are deposited elsewhere. The pulp tastes like a tropical-fruit version of Capri Sun and its used to flavor ice cream, sorbet, sherbet, candy, and drinks. Passionflower naturally grows in sunny environments within native prairies, human-made fields and wood edges, and natural edges such as wetland edges, edges of thickets, and riverbanks. They are strongly rhizomatous, meaning they will pop up clones of themselves through underground stems known as rhizomes. For this reason they are best cultivated on fence lines or provided with a welded wire fence to climb, surrounding by lawn in its own bed. The mowing around the Passionflower will contain its suckering and help to keep it one place. You must plant two passionflowers born from two different seeds (genetically distinct - non-clones) to get passionflower fruit. This passionflower species is not too shade tolerant, but it’s not picky about Soil PH.

Carpenter Bee Partners (Pictured Above)

See how the carpenter bee fits perfectly between the anther (pollen releasing part of the flower), and the flower petals it stands on. As it pushes its way to the center of the flower, which holds nectar for the Carpenter Bee, the hairs behind the head get rubbed on the underside of the passionflower's anthers which in turn are dumping golden pollen onto the bee. Passionflower is in part interdependent or symbiotic with these large carpenter bees whom have a big appetite for their nectar.

Germination Tips: There are a couple of keys to getting high Passionflower germination. 1. preferably do not let them dry out if you’re able to collect them in person. If you’re buying passionflower seeds, they will be dry. To help rehydrate them, soak them in water for 5 days. The water will slowly re-saturate the seed. The cold-moist stratify them for at least 90 days or leave them in a pot outdoors all fall and winter, halfway buried underground to protect from the coldest temperatures. Sow 1/4th inch beneath the surface in the spring time. They will germinate when air temperatures consistently reach above 77 degrees.

(The Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae - left) and the Zebra Longing (Heliconius charithonia - right) caterpillars require different species of passionflower as a host plant. Both species have formidable spikes as caterpillars combined with bright colors to warn predators that they may be poisonous.

Northern Pecan

Pecan in a field, ripe pecan nuts, and a resident of Pecan trees - a Screech owl. The owl likely hunts rodents who are attracted to the pecans when the pecans begin ripening.

Pecans (Carya illinoinensis) are already well rooted in U.S. food culture. In some southern states, 30-60% of the pecan production are wild-harvested, though Native Plant Agriculture plans for the agricultural expansion of pecans; not more intensive wild-harvesting. Being a native hickory tree, they can host over 200 butterfly/moth caterpillars as well as many of other native insects. They naturally range as far north as the Illinois/Wisconsin/Iowa tri-state. When seedlings are grown from northern populations; they bear well throughout the lower midwest and mid-atlantic states (Zone 6 and much Zone 5). Pecans can attain massive size; larger than all other hickories especially when planted in bottomland or floodplain soils. They are PH Generalists, adapted to PH in the 5 to 8+ range. Their massive root systems, like that of an Oak’s, afford them good drought tolerance throughout their native range. This is the fastest growing Hickory of all trees within the Carya genus.

Germination Tips: If you’re luck enough to have found a fruiting hickory tree, create a mouse proof container. This is typically a container with drainage holes that is covered with zip-tied hardware cloth. Place the Pecans in soil within this mouse-proofed container, and bury it +85% underground. Unearth it in the spring time and sow the Pecans in full-sun. They’ll need air temperatures to consistently reach about 77 degrees before they will germinate in mass.

Pecans host many types of insects, including caterpillars (moths and butterfly larva) like the Hickory Horned Devil (Citheronia regalis, top left), Hickory Tiger Moth (Lophocampa caryae, bottom right), Red-humped Caterpillar (Schizura concinna - top right), and the Luna moth (Actias luna - bottom left). All of these caterpillars are have widespread ranges in the eastern U.S. and support many birds, reptiles, mammals, and other larger wildlife as food. Even though Pecan trees may not be native throughout the Midwest and Mid-Atlantic; these associated fauna are and can often use Pecan trees as host plants like they would a hickory tree.

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Wild Bergamot - Monarda fistulosa Profile

Wild Bergamot (Bottom Center) with Purple Coneflower, Grey Headed Coneflower, Canada Goldenrod, and Blackberry in a Native Meadow

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) is a perennial herbaceous plant in the mint family, and if the leaves are rubbed it exudes a pleasant fragrance. The plant is edible and the flavor is somewhat similar to oregano, used as a spice in native plant agriculture. Other Indigenous People’s traditional uses include making tea from the leaves to treat viruses and various symptoms. The tea also has a slight sedative - calming effect on the mind.

Wild Bergamot is a hardy plant that spreads short distances by rhizomes (underground stems) and can quickly spread in loamy or rich soil. As they spread, they form circular shaped clumps. This plant prefers moderate moisture soils, but can handle saturated soils as well. It’s shade tolerance is moderate, capable of growing in canopy openings within floodplain forests. If your soil is exceptionally dry, just apply 1.5 inches of water per 14 days during droughts to maintain the healthiest representation of Wild Bergamot.

A Two Spotted Bumble Bee (Left) sharing a Wild Bergamot Bloom with an Eastern Carpenter Bee (Right)

This plant is a pollinator powerhouse attracting bumblebees, miner bees, cuckoo bees, and large leaf-cutting bees, bee flies, butterflies, skippers, and hummingbird moths (see below). The seeds are eaten by Goldfinches as they mature in late summer. 

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Pictured above Top Right - Hummingbird Clearwing Moth, Bottom Left Great Spangled Fritillary, Bottom Right - Two Spotted Longhorn Bee

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In Native Meadows or Native Prairies - Wild Bergamot forms an aesthetic firework show when combined with Purple Coneflower, Slender Mountain Mint, Royal Catchfly, and Grey Headed Coneflower or Early Sunflower. Be aware that these plants look spectacular during the mid summer but as the season wears on they physically degrade as they go into early dormancy especially if summer drought persists. Give them mid to late summer waterings to help them retain better aesthetic quality - in garden situations. In Meadow conditions they will blend in with the other vegetation and aesthetic decline won’t be much of an issue.

Wild Bergamot is often bound to get Powdery Mildew. There’s not much you can do about it without using potentially insect - toxic fungicides on the leaves. The condition is reduced when Wild Bergamot is given an abundance of sunlight. Powdery Mildew typically doesn’t significantly harm the plant, it just degrades the aesthetic of the leaves.

COMPANION Plants of Wild Bergamot

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Pollinator Garden Positioning of Companion Plants

The following paragraph will help you position the above pictured companion plants with Wild Bergamot in Pollinator Gardens. In front should translate to being planted on the Southeast, South, or Southwest side of Wild Bergamot. Behind translates to being planted on the Northeast, North, Northwest side of Wild Bergamot. And beside is self-explanatory - East or West side of Wild Bergamot.

Royal Catchfly - Beside or in front. Grey Headed Coneflower - Beside. Blue Wild Indigo and White Wild Indigo in front. Common Milkweed - Beside or Behind. Echinacea - in front. Early Sunflower - Beside or Behind. Yellow Crownbeard - in front. Culver’s Root -Beside. Wild Senna - Behind or Beside. Tall Boneset Beside or in front. Common Sneezeweed - in front. Ironweed - Behind. Tall Coreopsis - Behind. New England Aster - in front or Beside. Showy Goldenrod - in front.

We highly recommend Wild Bergamot for Native Meadows and Pollinator Gardens. A little goes a long way aesthetically, for example in a 14’ x 6’ bed just 5 individual plants will create a great display.

Germination Tips for Plugs: Cold moist Stratify for 30 - 40 days then surface sow - compress into surface of medium/soil when sowing.

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Elderberry - Sambucus canadensis Profile

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a thicket species that thrives in permanently wet, seasonally wet, and average soil moisture conditions. The small fruits are medicinal and edible to humans when properly prepared. They’re also highly favored by a wide variety of native bird species. This thicket species is very vigorously growing, capable of growing 6 feet in one year after it’s established. They top out at 7 to 12 feet tall depending on the available moisture and surrounding competition. The blooms are born in early summer after Flowering Dogwood and the Shrub Dogwood species are finished blooming. Elderberry is primarily pollinated by short-tongued insects and small native solitary bees. In seasonally saturated or frequently saturated soils they grow well with Silky Dogwood, Gray Dogwood, Buttonbush, Ninebark, and shrub willow species. Wild growing Elderberry is a good indicator of at least moderately high soil moisture as it does not grow in drier soils. In landscape conditions, just with providing it with 2 inches of water during the summer droughts, you can get elderberry to grow in a wider range of conditions. This thicket species is adapted to partial shade as well as full sun. On river floodplains it is one of the only thicket species that can withstand the flooding waters carrying tree logs that destroy understory trees and shrubs. It survives by creating hollow branches that are easily regenerated after collision with flood-thrown logs.

Elderberries are used as an anti-viral treatment of illnesses. Science has proven that the medicinal compounds found in elderberries lessens the recovery time and severity of the flu virus and other viruses. The practice of using Elderberries as medicine originated with indigenous people within the native ranges of the Elderberry species. Today, elderberries have managed to become a small part of U.S. culinary practice and medicinal practice. You can find medicinal elderberry syrup in many health food stores. Cooking the berries to make jellies, syrup, or wine are the most common consumption routes of elderberries and cultivars have already been selected for larger berry sizes and/or flavors. These first cultivar selections of elderberry represent small gains over wild elderberries in size, but with more attention and time devoted to the cultivation of elderberries, they likely will increase more in yield and/or size per berry overtime. Elderberry commercial production has grown the quickest in Missouri where it is now the most profitable berry grown in the state.

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Above the native Elderberry Borer (Desmocerus palliatus) is pictured. Borers are a type of beetle that eats the pith, sapwood, and/or cambium of trees and shrubs. Native Borers are co-evolved with the native plants and don’t kill their host plants unlike the non-native Emerald Ash Borer that kills Ash trees. Technically the Elderberry Borer is a long horned beetle despite its common name. This beetles’ larvae develops by consuming the pith inside of the elderberry branches and roots.

Propagation (Cloning and Growing from Seed)

When exceptionally sized or yielding elderberry seedlings are found, cloning them is easy due to the rhizome production. Cutting into the elderberry thicket with a spade in the fall will expose fleshy whiteish rhizomes that can but cut into 4-5 inch pieces that will each become clones of the parent plant genetically. Taking these rhizomes and nursery propagating them into 25 gallon pots will make the rhizomes multiply after a full-growing season creating more clones of your selected Elderberry. They can also root through stem cuttings, and if you're not seeking clones; collect the seed and overwinter them in silty soil pot outside for the winter. Come early march; wash the silty soil away through a fine mesh strainer leaving the seeds behind. Sow the seeds in early march or your region's equivalent to early spring/late winter. The seeds will germinate by mid spring and can grow as large as 4 feet tall during their first season if provided with enough soil medium, fertilizer, water, and sunlight.

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Compass Plant - Silphium laciniatum profile

Compass Plant in a Prairie Dropseed sod with White Prairie Clover, Purple Prairie Clover, Wild Quinine and Prairie Dock.

This profile was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Compass Plant (Silphium laciniatum) is a perennial giant of the prairies, reaching six to ten feet tall when mature. Its taproot can grow over 7ft into the ground, and Compass plants have been known to live for over 50 years. It prefers full sun and tolerates moist to dry soil conditions. The drier the soil, the shorter the flowering stem. Sometimes the flowering stem will get pruned by deer grazing early in the season resulting in a shorter flowering stem. The gold flowers have broad, long petals that help them standout from a distance. In a native meadow planting Compass Plant is an easy standout aesthetically. The foliage is drought resistant in the sense that in the case of drought, the foliage will not visually degrade in response the stress. Long-tongued bees are important pollinators of this plant, including bumblebees, miner bees, and large leaf-cutting bees. Sulfur Butterflies, Monarchs and other butterflies also visit the flowers for nectar.

Compass plant orients its leaves to the sun (read below).

It's called a compass plant because the "front" side of the leaf that does most of the photosynthesis faces east to catch morning sunlight in the cooler part of the day. The thin margin of the leaf is pointed south, minimizing sunlight exposure during the hottest part of the day. And the back side faces west. This orientation is especially true of younger, immature plants.

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Compass Plants produce excellent perching plants for grassland and native meadow birds. You may notice a concentration bird droppings on around tall meadow plants like Compass Plants because of their prime perching disposition, acting as a bit of natural fertilizer. The droppings wash off after a few rain events. Goldfinches and native rodents will eat the sunflower like seeds as they mature. In meadow mixes it will often take 4 full years or more for the Compass Plant to bloom, especially in clay soils as it takes its time drilling the taproot deep into the subsoil. Plants as deeply rooted as Compass Plant have excellent staying power among vigorous prairie grasses such as Big Bluestem, Indian Grass, Switch Grass, Little Bluestem, and Prairie Dropseed. This is also true of its cousins - Prairie Dock, Cup Plant, and Rosinweeds. This whole genus is packed full of long lived, large growing native perennials excellent for native meadow plantings. In gardens Compass Plants often flop due to lack of enough root competition. But within native prairie/native meadow plantings they are provided with enough root competition to stand high and mighty among the other native vegetation.

Germination Tips for Plugs: Cold moist Stratify for 40 or more days then sow 1/8th inch below surface.

Receive 40% off of our Native Plant Propagation Guide/Nursery Model book when purchased as a package. deal with either our Native Meadowscaping book or our Native Plant Agriculture book at this link.

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EXPECT 3 NATIVE PLANT EDUCATIONAL POSTS A WEEK AT THIS WEBSITE

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How to Grow Spicebush - Lindera benzoin

A mature open grown Spicebush tolerating seasonally saturated soil.

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) - a most productive and adaptable shrub for wildlife native to the entire Eastern half of the U.S. Spicebush stands out among native shrubs in a various ways.

1. Their fruits are among the highest quality nutritionally, high in fats and protein.

2. Their blooms offer one the earliest sources of pollen and nectar.

3. Their shade tolerance is excellent, though they can adapt to full-sun with moderate soil moisture as well. They can also adapt to seasonally wet soils and acidic or alkaline PH.

4. Their fall color is consistently gold, and their form is beautiful without pruning efforts.

5. They are supremely resistant to deer grazing.

6. They host a few specialist insects, one being the Spicebush Swallow Tail (Papilio troilus) that uses plants in the Laurel family to host on.

7. Their fragrant foliage and stems and fruits can be used for a flavorful tea or seasoning applications.

Spicebush going into fall color in a well drained soil condition at a cemetery in full-sun.

Spicebush is highly adaptable. In regions that receive at least 38 inches of rain annually on average, they can be grown in full-sun especially in the lower midwest, mid-atlantic, mid-south, northeast, and upper midwest - where native. In these regions, they grow well out in open areas showing a moderate drought tolerance. The shrubs either produce male - pollen bearing flowers or female - nectar producing flowers. Most nursery’s will not have the sex of the shrub identified, so be sure to plant at least 3 to 5 to heighten the probability you get a mix of male and female flowering trees. Only the female flowering trees produce fruit.

Deeper into the south where temperatures are higher and growing seasons are longer, they establish best in seasonally saturated soil if grown in full-sun, or shadier conditions. If you’re trying to find a place in your yard for them in the Deep South, try the Northside, Eastside, or Westside of your home where they will receive shade for part of the day.

In historically bad droughts or severe droughts, simply set your sprinkler up on the spicebush and give 2 inches of water ever 14 days in which there isn’t 1” of rain fall. This is just watering twice a month during exceptional dry spells. While they should survive without this watering, the watering will increase growth rate and increase the size of the fruits for wildlife as well as the density of flowers for the following spring.

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How to Germinate Spicebush Seeds

To grow spicebush from seed, collect some red fruits in the late summer, burry them in a pot with a silty soil, and allow the soil microbes to break down the flesh of the fruit over the fall and winter. Leave this pot outdoors buried halfway underground so it is not subjected to the coldest winter temperatures. In early spring, strain the silty soil from the seeds by using a hose on a jet setting and a strainer; washing the silty soil away leaving only the seeds. Sow in early spring and expect germination by mid spring. Grow the seedings in full-sun or partial shade (either). Full-sun for the seedlings will result in larger seedlings than those grown in partial shade.

Receive 40% off of our Native Plant Propagation Guide/Nursery Model book when purchased as a package. deal with either our Native Meadowscaping book or our Native Plant Agriculture book at this link.

Learn about what our Native Meadowscaping book has to offer here at this link.

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EXPECT 3 NATIVE PLANT EDUCATIONAL POSTS A WEEK AT THIS WEBSITE

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The Various Expressions of a Native Persimmon - Diospyros virginiana

The Ohio Champion Persimmon with human for scale, topping 87 feet tall by 46 feet wide.

This short article was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

In Native Plant Agriculture the native Persimmon’s adaptability and fruit productivity is unmatched. They may not achieve heights of over 40 feet tall on drier clay or sandy soils, but they will still out produce any other native or non-native fruit crop under those poor-soil conditions. They can be found from the Mississippi River floodplain to the high and dry landscapes of the Appalachian Mountain range. Persimmons naturally grow within grasslands, various forest types, savannas, and woodlands thriving in a wide PH range and wide moisture tolerance range from semi-dry to seasonally-saturated.

The cutting down of a Persimmon tree lead to the sprouting of over 40 persimmon trunks from the root system.

Personally I’ve witnessed a client cut down a single 25 foot tall persimmon tree unknowingly only for over 80 - 2 to 3 foot sprouts to arise from the root system the following summer. These would be clones though, and still need other genetically distinct trees to cross pollinate with to produce good fruit yields. Also if you didn’t know, Persimmon trees most of the time either produce male flowers or female flowers. The trees that produce the female flowers are the ones that produce fruit. Sometimes female trees can produce male flowers too.

Fire Makes Persimmon Thickets (Like pictured above)

Persimmons are very adapted to fire, in fact, fire only increases persimmon sprout growth. In one study in Oklahoma a summer prescribed burn increased persimmon sprouts from 542 individuals to 750. The winter burn was even worse for those seeking to destroy the persimmon trees, as stem quantity increased from just 17 to 583. Persimmon wood is also adapted to open prairie winds. The wood is dense and wind-tolerant to the point that these trees rarely break unless they’re near the end of their lifespan (rotten).

In just the average soils and climate of SW Ohio Persimmons reach heights of +60 feet in forest conditions, and 40 to 55 feet in open grown conditions. The largest persimmons top 80 feet in height but are still just 40-50 feet in canopy spread allowing a high density stocking rate per acre due to the columnar or “rocket” shape of the trees.

A forest grown native Persimmon tree.

Persimmons grow as much as the site conditions allow. They can be as large as an open grown Shagbark Hickory, or just a bit larger than a flowering dogwood when clinging to sandstone on a dry open ridge. They should not be undervalued for their carbon sequestering abilities. They may not be as massive as Oaks, Hickories, or Walnuts, but they can be stocked at a high density per acre. With their grassland adapted root system like that of prairie thicket species; they may be able to access water at depths of 4 feet deep or more. This is a known fact with prairie thickets species such as Hazelnut and Wild Plum, but unstudied as far as persimmon.

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The pictures above depict the fruit size variation from tree to tree. Within a single wild population, fruit size may not vary greatly but as you travel to different populations you will notice fruit size variability. Human planted persimmons can have genetics from different regions causing high variability of fruit expressions.

Where exactly does this native persimmon of different shapes and sizes belong? The answer is, wherever wildlife deposits the seeds and the trees grow to maturity whether that be in Grasslands, Savannas, Woodlands, or Forests within its native range. They have proven themselves to be adapted to most midwestern, mid-atlantic, and southeastern ecosystems. And this wide range of adaptability makes them an excellent choice for Native Plant Agricultural production, food forests, and metropolitan or rural plantings within or near their native range.

Germination Tips: Extract the seeds from the fruit. Cold Moist Stratify the seeds outdoors in a heeled in container with drainage from the fall throughout the winter. Sow in the spring, expect germination by early summer.

Receive 40% off of our Native Plant Propagation Guide/Nursery Model book when purchased as a package. deal with either our Native Meadowscaping book or our Native Plant Agriculture book at this link.

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Slender Mountain Mint - Pycnanthemum tenuifolium Profile

Slender Mountain in a Native Meadow Planting

This profile was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available at this link.

Slender Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum tenuifolium) is a perennial native plant that branches in a way that creates a miniature bushy effect as its form. It grows easily in moist soils to average soils as long as it has full sun to partial sun, blooming most profusely in full-sun. It inhabits wetlands, moist to fairly dry soil prairies, meadows, gravelly areas along rivers, openings in woodlands, glades, and abandoned fields showing off a wide range of adaptability.

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Top left: Aged Pearl Crescents Top Right: A thread waisted wasp (Eremnophila aeronata) on the right with a sphecid wasp, Isodontia, on the left. Bottom Left: Great Gold Sand Digger Wasp (Sphex ichneumoneus) Bottom Right: Great Black Wasp (Sphex pensylvanicus)

The small white flowers attract many insects including long-tongued bees, short-tongued bees, wasps, flies, butterflies, skippers, and beetles. On this post the featured wasp species are completely non-aggressive as they're foraging for nectar and pollen. They would only get aggressive if a human disturbed their nests. Mammals avoid browsing the minty foliage which features a poisonous alkaloid.

Slender Mountain Mint has great staying power, able to persist among tallgrasses and short grasses for the long-run in prairies/grasslands. The small seeds stay fertile in the seed bank allowing it to pop up in old-field habitats where it hadn't existed for decades. Other mountain mint species have wide ranging adaptations like Slender Mountain Mint. If you have the opportunity to plant more than one species in your native meadow, then do so as they will likely bloom at different times and be slightly adapted to different conditions strengthening the integrity of your seed mix. In pollinator gardens Slender Mountain mint is a foreground plant in most plantings. The bright white helps highlight other midsummer flowering plants like Purple Coneflower. The fine textured foliage looks excellent before and after blooming. The seed heads carry some interest into the winter.

Companion Plants for Slender Mountain Mint

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Companion Plants (Pictured Above): Golden Alexander, Sand Coreopsis, Penstemon digitalis, Penstemon calycosus, Ohio Spiderwort, Butterflyweed, Nodding Onion, Purple Coneflower, Great Blue Lobelia, Cardinal Flower, Rudbeckia fulgida, Prairie Dock, Early Goldenrod, Dwarf Goldenrod, Mistflower, Aromatic Aster

Germination Tips for Plugs: Cold Moist Stratify for 40 or more days then surface sow - compress into surface.

Receive 40% off of our Native Plant Propagation Guide/Nursery Model book when purchased as a package. deal with either our Native Meadowscaping book or our Native Plant Agriculture book at this link.

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A Native Vegetable you can Grow this Spring - Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis)

Wild collected Evening Primrose roots by Jeff Knieser. When it is grown in a garden setting the roots can be twice as large as these pictured.

This Native Plant Profile was written by Solomon Gamboa; Author of Native Meadowscaping , Native Plant Agriculture , and A Native Plant Propagation Guide & Nursery Model all available here: https://indigescapes.com/ourbooks

Evening Primrose is a fairly commonly encountered native wildflower. Indigenous peoples of the midwestern, northeastern, southeastern, and mid-atlantic U.S. cultivated this plant as a food source. Evening primrose roots could be developed into many different seed strains of different root textures, sizes, and flavors with a proper breeding program. As of now collecting seed from most wild populations (or buying seed online) produces palatable roots of good size when grown in an agricultural – low competition setting, and boiled before eaten like potatoes. Its also commercially farmed for its seed production to produce Evening Primrose Oil which is used medicinally. Only the first year root is edible, while the plant is a basal rosette. The second year the plant grows tall and flowers - and by then the root has turned woody and mostly inedible.

The Evening Primrose Moth, pictured by Stan Malcolm. Its caterpillars prefer to eat the seed heads of the plant in the second year of growth.

Cultivation

Evening Primrose is a biennial adapted to harsh soils as well as higher moisture soils, being most prolific within full-sun. As with most root crops, the more aerated the soil is, the larger the root can grow, though soils that are very sandy may create long skinny taproot formation. Very compacted clay soils will restrict the taproot growth as it does to all plants. Cold-Moist Stratify Evening Primrose seeds for 45 days, before surface seeding them onto cleared/bare soil in the early spring. Harvest the roots in late fall/early winter the same year. Again, you must harvest them at the end of the first growing season, as in the second growing season the root turns more woody and inedible.

In Bloom

Natural History

Evening Primrose would naturally occur where grazing fauna such as Groundhog, Bison, or Elk damage the perennial herbaceous layer of a grassland or meadow community creating a niche for this biennial to germinate and take root among the stunted grasses. In modern time these plants are now often seen on roadsides where herbicide applications, brush mowing, and salt damage create open niches. This is the kind of native plant with the toughness to pop up in a crack within the cement. Wild growing evening primrose roots will naturally be much smaller than those grown in a cultivated garden, due to the difference in vegetation competition.

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If you don't want to harvest the roots in year one, you will be rewarded by a profuse set of blooms lasting over 1 months time in midsummer, blooming from the evening into the morning hours and closing during the day. They are very popular with moths at night, and bumble bees in the morning. I chose to write about this plant, because unlike most native foods, evening primrose seeds are readily available for sale online. Be sure to purchase Evening Primrose seed with the scientific name - Oenothera biennis. Look for the companies that sell it by the ounce for the best pricing.

Receive 40% off of our Native Plant Propagation Guide/Nursery Model book when purchased as a package. deal with either our Native Meadowscaping book or our Native Plant Agriculture book at this link.

Learn about what our Native Meadowscaping book has to offer here at this link.

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EXPECT 3 NATIVE PLANT EDUCATIONAL POSTS A WEEK AT THIS WEBSITE

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We’re located in Cincinnati, Ohio - For Customer Service; email us at Solomon@Indigescapes.com