Words on Butternut Hickory - Carya cordiformis

Spring Ephemeral season is a great time to talk about the native trees that create the forests most ephemeral wildflowers rely on to persist in. Pictured here is Virginia Blue Bells on a hillside of Ordovician bedrock soil known as residuum - which is soil formed in place from weathered bedrock. This particular bedrock is rich with fossils preserved within limestone layers that alternate with layers of grey shale. The limestone has a PH greater than 7.0 and the shale has a PH of about 6.0 forming a soil PH of about 6.8 - 7.1. The tree in this picture is the Yellowbud Hickory aka Bitternut Hickory (Carya cordifromis) which is equally adapted to acidic soils, neutral soils, and alkaline soils the same. This is the only Hickory that is a PH generalist (occurring in both acidic and alkaline) outside of the Pecan species which is also a PH generalist. All other hickories prefer either acidic or weakly acidic to alkaline soils. In addition to being a PH generalist, Yellowbud is widely adapted to different soil moisture ranges; able to occur on shallow rocky soils as well as less-frequently flooded alluvial soils or average conditions.

The leaves typically have 7-9 leaflets, and the terminal buds are a dark yellow color. This Hickory isn't as fire tolerant as Shagbark Hickory, Shellbark Hickory, Smooth Hickory (Carya glabra), or Red Hickory (Carya ovalis).

Yellowbud Hickories make one of the prettiest shade trees due to their thin dark green leaflets giving a fine texture on a columnar shaped canopy that has yellow or gold fall color. They're also the second fastest growing hickory tree, behind the famous Pecan tree. In Native Plant Agriculture, Yellowbud Hickory Woodlands produce hickory oil which can be used as a sustainable substitute for soybean oil, animal oils, or vegetable oils. The thin shelled nuts are too bitter with tannins for easy human consumption but these nuts are crushed by commercial presses to produce a fragrant and non-bitter hickory oil product.

Key for the Map Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

WRITTEN BY: SOLOMON DOE AUTHOR/OWNER OF INDIGENOUS LANDSCAPES

Learn about American Elm - Ulmus americana

American Elm thriving in seasonally flooded conditions. This water will drain within 1 week’s time after a spring flood.

The American Elm (Ulmus americana) is still alive and well, despite the ailments we've introduced into the ecosystem that reduce its population. The American Elm is the most versatile tree of the Eastern Half of the United States, occurring in nearly every forest type. Acidic or Alkaline, Wetland or Upland, Floodplain or Glacial Till Plain, Unglaciated or Glaciated - American Elm Occurs in all of these conditions. In general, if a native tree can grow there, then it is likely that the American Elm can grow there too. Where soil is especially droughty, thin, rocky, or sandy and dry - that is one of the only conditions where American Elm doesn't prosper.

American Elm's are often assumed to have all died, and while a large portion of the population did die, this tree species has persevered and regenerated. It is actually it's cousin, the Red Elm aka Slippery Elm that suffers more frequently from Dutch Elm's disease. Slippery Elms now rarely persist for over 70 years of age before succumbing to the disease.

Goldfinch eating American Elm seeds in the Spring time.

American Elm flowers in the late winter/early spring, then it quickly begins forming its seeds. The seeds are mature by mid spring, falling to the ground in mass after floating some distance from the parent trees; given a strong gust of wind. These seeds are one of the first major food sources for wildlife in the spring. Not only are the seeds edible to humans, but they're also edible to nearly all native mammals, and many native bird species. The emerging tender leaves of American Elm are also edible to humans and the inner bark is both edible and medicinal.

Propagation Tips: Collect the spring born seeds and sow immediately. No stratification needed.

Shade Tolerance: 3/5

American Elm (left) drops its leaves quicker than Oaks (right) in the fall.

Another mature American Elm.

American Elm in a city neighborhood.

This native Elm tree has two forms of bark expressions. A thickly furrowed inter-crossing bark pattern, and a second more level, flattened scaly bark expression. Mature Elm trees fall on a spectrum between these two expressions. Picture above is a young American Elm with thick corky bark.

Pictured above is a flatter scaly barked American Elm in the foreground of an acidic seasonally saturated forest.

Key for the Maps Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

WRITTEN BY: SOLOMON DOE AUTHOR/OWNER OF INDIGENOUS LANDSCAPES

Learn about Shagbark Hickory - Carya ovata

Leaflet of 5 with shaggy bark means it's Shagbark Hickory. Leaflet of 7 with shaggy bark means it’s a Shellbark Hickory.

Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata)

Shagbark Hickory occurs as a common species in strongly acidic soils to near neutral PH (5-6.8PH). It is a consistent indicator of acidic soil where naturally occurring and associated with one or more these following species; Sweet Gum, Black Gum, Sassafras, Mockernut Hickory, Smooth Hickory (Carya glabra), Pin Oak, Black Oak, Scarlet Oak, Red Maple, or Shingle Oak. It is an indicator of weakly acidic or neutral soil (6.5-7.0 PH) when naturally associated with one or more of the following species; Chinquapin Oak, Shumard Oak, Bur Oak, Shellbark Hickory, Kentucky Coffee Tree, or Blue Ash. Because of its preference for acidic soil and adaptability to low or high moisture availability and poorly drained soils, it finds a place in many forest types. It’s co-dominant in Acidic Forested Wetlands featuring Pin Oak, Swamp White Oak, Beech, Green Ash, Red Maple, Sweet Gum canopies; it’s also very shade tolerant in these Acidic Forested Wetlands. At the same time it can be found in very well drained acidic soils. The common denominator is acidity, not moisture level. In restoration it should only be planted in soils of a PH less than 7.0 to mimic or match its original niche.

A stand of Shagbark Hickory that naturally regenerated in a private residential lot.

Shagbark Hickory fall colors are similar to Shellbark, sometimes Yellowish-Gold, sometimes brown it depends on the year. Shagbark Hickories are more columnar than Shellbark Hickories as Shellbark Hickory often has a slightly more spreading, broader canopy shape. This allows you to fit Shagbark Hickory in tighter spaces. Both Shellbark and Shagbark have similar fire tolerance so they’re both applicable to Savanna plantings though Shagbark should be planted in acidic soil Savannas. Shagbark Hickory has more dry soil tolerance than Shellbark Hickory, though it’s also applicable to acidic forested wetland forest types where Pin Oak, Swamp White Oak, Red Maple, Sweetgum, and Green Ash grow. Not recommended for house cooling as the limbs get too heavy and tall above a house to risk planting near a house. Nuts can be crushed and simmered for at least 6 hours to make a savory broth-like product. Bark can also be used to flavor syrup. Height is 55’-80’. Applicable to all hillside aspects; N, E, W, and S or flatter ground. Wind Pollinated.

Defining Characteristics

What separates Shagbark from all other hickories except for Shellbark Hickory is the mature form of it's bark. In the growing season, use the leaflet of 5 paired with the bark to separate it from Shellbark. In the winter, use the nut size comparisons + bark, though nut comparison is less reliable to the inexperienced eye.

A large Shagbark in the backyard of a home

Bark of Shagbark hickory

More shagbark Fall color

Shagbark nuts - easy to gather in mass if you find hickories in open fields away from the reach of squirrels. Squirrels rarely cross wide open fields because of the danger of foxes, coyotes, bobcats, and birds of prey. Squirrels must stay sprinting distance away from some type of cover such as a house or tree.

Key for the Maps Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

WRITTEN BY: SOLOMON DOE AUTHOR/OWNER OF INDIGENOUS LANDSCAPES

Learn about Black Gum - (Nyssa sylvatica

Fall color picture by Leonora Enking

Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica) - A Native Tree of Great Wildlife Value

Few plants can support as many bees, flies, beetles, and wasp pollinators as a Black Gum tree which bears its highly accessible flowers in the spring as the leaves are almost fully developed. These pollinators carry pollen from male trees to trees with female flowers that produce a high lipid - high quality berry that matures in the month of September or October. As the berries age, if not already taken by bird, Black Gums drop the berries to the ground which may aid mammal consumption of the fruit, allowing for mammal dispersal of the seed. Black Gums are in the same order of Dogwoods and sometimes considered to be in the same family. Both have a hard seed coat that without scarification leads to the seed germinating after two springs. This is called double dormancy. When Black Gum and Dogwood species' seeds are scarified with acid for 15-20 minutes and then moist cold stratified for at least 120 days, they germinate the first spring instead of the 2nd spring circumventing the double dormancy. Both Dogwood and Black Gum seeds are sought out by rodents who split the seed to extract the kernel as a food source. In addition to harvesting the seeds directly from the fruits; rodents harvest black gum and dogwood seeds from Bear scat and other animal scat, in the same way they do black cherry and wild plum seeds. This is part of how black gums feed the entire food chain, from hosting insects, to supporting pollinators, to producing a seed crop utilized by rodents, and producing berries utilized by native mammals and birds. Black Gum is an acidic soil indicator that naturally occurs between a range of upper 4PH to upper 6PH and rarely or never in PH higher than 6.8 in our soil survey/forest cross analyses. Besides the biology of black gums; the glossy leaves, beautiful form, drought tolerance, and fall color make it one of the most attractive native trees to plant in the landscape. Under natural conditions they are also one of the longer lived trees, commonly surpassing 250 years in age. Recommended for house cooling of 2 story or 3 story houses due to their propensity to not get much taller than these houses; planted on the West and Eastern sides. Applicable to all hillside aspects in the northern portion of its range; N,E,W, and S if the soil is deep - or flatter ground. Applicable to NE, N, NW, and E in the southern portion of its range or flatter ground. Height is 40’ to 60’. Insect Pollinated.

Wildlife values Black Gum fruits, also edible to humans, sour like lemon, could be used to flavor water like sumac and wild grapes.

Underneath a Black Gum.

Beauty + Wildlife Value of Black Gum fruits is what you receive.

So much food production for wildlife.

Black Gum fall color

A black gum in a neighborhood setting.

Key for the Maps Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

WRITTEN BY: SOLOMON DOE AUTHOR/OWNER OF INDIGENOUS LANDSCAPES

Learn about Sassafras and Black Gum

Pictured are two tree species native to the eastern half of the United States, Sassafras and Black Gum also known as Black Tupelo. Sassafras (Sassafras albidum) and Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica) both naturally occur in acidic soils (4.0 - 6.9 PH) and rarely in neutral or alkaline soils (7.0+). They have similar drought tolerance which could be rated as 4/5 on a scale of 5, and can grow well in sandy, silty, or clayey soils. The fall color ranges from golds, oranges, reds, and purples in both species making for an annual spectacle in autumn. Their similarities continue in their ability to grow in high water table soils that don't drain well in the winter and spring seasons. These soils fall under the scientific term "wet-mesic" meaning seasonally wet - but not wet all year round.

Both tree species produce high quality berries for wildlife rich in fats and proteins that are highly favored by birds. Birds get most of the Sassafras berries before they can fall to the ground but Black Gum produces a higher quantity of berries as Black Gum becomes larger and more fruit productive as it matures. Many of those Black Gum berries fall to the ground where Turkey and Native ground level feeding wildlife can consume them in mass. Black Gum fruits are incredibly tart to humans, but can be juiced and sweetened to be used as a drink flavoring similar how lemons, limes, and Sumac berries are used.

Sassafras and Black Gum attract and support native bees as they bloom in the spring. Both species are dioecious, meaning some trees produce only female blooms bearing nectar, and other trees produce male blooms bearing pollen. Only the female flower producing trees can bear fruit while the male flower producing trees do not bear fruit. Both are required somewhat near each other (within 80 feet or so ideally) for the female trees to be crosspollinated for fruit bearing. Black Gum usually produces single trunk trees but may be clustered if many trees grew up together from different seeds (deposited in scat), where as Sassafras runs root suckers forming thickets of many trunks if it's in an open, sun exposed setting like a field. These pictured trees are growing on a fenceline likely originally as seeds from digested fruit deposited as bird droppings when birds perched on the fenceline 20-25 years ago. Fence lines are hard to mow close to which allows tree seedlings to escape mowers and grow into trees such as these in this picture.

The Sassafras and Black Gum trees are immature in this picture, standing at about 25 feet tall. In this open condition the Sassafras will get about 40 to 50 feet tall, and the Black Gum can reach heights of 60 feet. In forests they can get taller than those heights.

Sassafras Native Range

Black Gum Native Range

Key for the Maps Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

WRITTEN BY: SOLOMON DOE AUTHOR/OWNER OF INDIGENOUS LANDSCAPES

Learn About Foxglove Beardtongue and Calico Beardtongue

Calico Penstemon showing off a variety of pinkish purplish spectrum blooms. Foxglove Beardtongue is on the top left of the photo showing white blooms.

Foxglove Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis) and Calico Beardtongue (Penstemon calycosus)

These two Penstemon species have good multi-season interest, providing spring blooms, fall color, and winter interest. These plants are favored by many bumblebee species, and some smaller native bee species as well, who enter the tubed flowers to retrieve both pollen and nectar. The dark green, glossy foliage, flower form, reddish fall color, and adaptability to full sun-drier soil to partial shade driers soil make them essential to most native plant displays within or near their native ranges.

They are also tolerant of moderately saturated soils (Wet-Mesic). While the flowers of these beardtongues rise to about 20-26” off the ground; the majority of the foliage occupies 0-18” off the ground. They form clumps that will widen overtime in landscapes, typically living at least 7 years in lifespan. They reseed readily if there is open soil available, holding good permanency in landscapes or prairies long-term. Naturally these plants grow in prairie, savanna, and open woodland environments.

The bloom period is mid to late spring. In prairie landscapes, one of the prettiest spring scenes are Penstemon species blooming with Tradescantia ohioensis (Ohio Spiderwort). Companion plants we recommend to use with these are Sand Coreopsis and Hairy wood mint which together can create a purple/blue, gold, pink or white combo as they bloom at the same time. We also enjoy the combination of Purple Coneflower and these beardtongues, especially in the fall when the coneflower heads turn black and the penstemon stems/foliage turn burgundy.

A close up on Foxglove Beardtongue

A Two spotted Bumblebee on Calico Beardtongue.

Foxglove Beardtongue thriving in a Native Meadow installation.

Calico Beardtongue being productive in partial shade.

Gold = Sand Coreopsis - Coreopsis lanceolata, Purple = Ohio Mint Blephilia ciliata, White = Foxglove Beardtongue

Foxglove Beardtongue teams up with Ohio Spiderwort

Foxglove Beardtongue as a stand alone specimen.

The same Foxglove Beardtongue pictured above, but now in fall color.

A mix of Foxglove Beardtongue and Calico Beardtongue in a Pollinator Garden.

Foxglove Beardtongue - Penstemon digitalis Bonap Range Map (Key Explained Below)

Calico Beardtongue - Penstemon calycosus Bonap Range Map (Key Explained Below)

Key for the Maps Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

Written by: Solomon Doe Author/OWner of Indigenous Landscapes

Annual Groundcherry - A Native Plant Agriculture Crop

My Personal Introduction story to a newly available Native Plant Agricultural fruit strain

I’ve always hated the taste of raw tomatoes to the point I would gag when accidentally consuming them. Knowing our native ground cherriy species of north america are in the same family as tomatoes; I was very hesitant to eat these native Annual Groundcherries (Physalis grisea) even after spending the energy growing them. In late June of 2025, I finally tried one, then one turned into many as they were so much sweeter than raw tomatoes; about 3 to 4 times sweeter. The flavor ratio was 85% subtle pineapple in flavor and 15% sweet tomato flavor with these first fruits eaten at a light yellow color stage. The tomato flavor was mostly concentrated in the skin. The pleasant fruity smell they left on my fingers had me sniffing all evening. Even though they have plenty of seeds in them, the seeds are very small to the point they’re undetectable as you eat the fruits. Nutritionally the seeds just count as part of the fiber content of the fruit.

These first Annual Groundcherry fruits were light yellow and I sensed it was only 85% ripe because at room temerpature the fruits would darken into a true gold color after a few days. So I decided to try a fully ripened Annual Groundcherry fruit, and was smacked in the mouth with an opposite flavor ratio of 75% sweet tomato flavor, and 25% subtle pineapple flavor. So it turns out, when the color of the fruit is light yellow, they are more pineapple flavored than tomato flavored. But when the fruit reaches its deepest ripening stage before decaying, the ratio flips into being a sweet tomato flavor accented by hints of pineapple. Based on your flavor preference, you could pick them at the light yellow stage or finish ripening them indoors in a mason jar at room temperature to get a more sweet tomato dominated flavor. The fruits have a long shelf life, and when picked at a yellow stage they can last in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks. If the fruits are picked in a fully ripe gold stage, they can last in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 weeks.

Native Range

The recorded occurrences of Annual Groundcherry in the wild are uncommon. This is partly due to most botanists who make these herbarium records - not knowing how to separate this species from the more commonly recorded perennial Groundcherry species such as Clammy Groundcherry or Long-Leaf Groundcherry. Due to the lack of common knowledge about this species, it’s only been officially recorded in very few counties within the southeast, midwest, and northeast. Ecologically its value is the same as the more commonly recorded aforementioned perennial groundcherry species. From Maine to Minnesota, Florida to Eastern Texas and everywhere in between this plant grows well and is fruitful when tended by humans as a fruit crop.

How to grow native Annual Groundcherries - Physalis grisea

1. In mid spring when frosts are a low possibility; soak your ground cherry seeds in water for 24 hours inside a ziplock or plasticware - inside of your refrigerator to keep the water cold.

2. Sow the seeds in prepared/cleared beds covered in 1” of saturated compost. The compost will help keep the seeds moist encouraging quick germination. Sow by pressing 5 seeds into the surface of the compost and barely covering them with less than 1/10th inch of compost leaving them just under the surface. Plant groups of 5 to 8 seeds every 2 feet horizontally or vertically depending on the orientation of your bed.

3. They will germinate within 10 to 25 days depending on spring temperatures.

4. Typically conditions promote fruit maturity within 60 to 80 days of germination.

Easier than Tomatoes

2 Annual ground cherry seedlings produced 480 grams of ground cherry fruits (1.1 pounds) by August 19th and continued producing fruit until the end of September. These plants were sown directly into the ground in mid April. While they produce a large amount of leaves/vegetation to withstand the large caterpillars of Tomato Hornworms; they did not contract them as host plants this year. Instead other insects chewed small, inconsequential holes into the leaves. To maximize fruit production, I watered them once every 10 days once the summer temperatures soared into the upper 80’s and into the 90’s. Without the supplemental watering they would have still succeeded, though they would have been smaller statured and less fruitful plants as they would appear in the wild.

The mature Annual Groundcherry patch pictured above began growing through the chicken wire, using it as support for its thick branches. This growth pattern suggests they could benefit from tomato cages. If the cages are installed when they are young, they will grow their horizontal branches through the tomato cage after they gain height.

Pictured above is what Annual Groundcherry looks like in late summer if it isn’t watered often. It stays low to the ground instead of growing taller and shrubbier. The fruits are hidden underneath the leaves.

Annual Groundcherry produces small pale yellow blooms that are pollinated by small native bees and sometimes bumblebees.

Pictured above is a moderately ripe Annual Groundcherry next to an unripe groundcherry. Before picking the fruit you can tear open its “Hood” to see the color of the fruit before deciding to pick it. Near-ripe fruits fall to the ground or into your hand as soon as you touch them.

getting access to Native Annual Groundcherry Seeds

We grew Annual Groundcherry this year specifically to produce seed to distribute to the public in some fashion. We saw that the few Annual Groundcherry sources on the internet were unpredictable as far as what species would actually grow from the seed - sometimes even non-native ground cherries are labeled as this native Annual Groundcherry (Physalis grisea). We feel this is a very fun and rewarding native crop for foragers and native plant enthusiasts to produce without much effort so we painstakingly harvested, cleaned and preserved the tiny seeds from our Annual Groundcherry production patch this September (of 2025).

Whether or not I can distribute these seeds is a matter of personal health status. We’ve been able to do 9 Native Seed mix sales in 2025 up to the date of 11/1/2025. If I’m able to do more native plant sales of any kind, that’s where you could find the Annual Groundcherry seed packets for sale. Sign up for our email list at the bottom of the webpage to be notified of our future native plant sales.

The Importance of Wet Areas to Pollinators

Pearl’s Fen in Southwest Ohio, early September 2025. The primary visible blooms are Joe Pyeweed (Pink), Common Boneset (White), Wingstem (Yellow), Swamp Goldenrod (Yellow), Tall Goldenrod (Yellow), and Swamp Thistle (Darker Pink). This natural wetland features a high water table and spring fed creek throughout the year, even through dry spells and drought.

The Unique Value of Wet Areas to Pollinators in Late Summer

In the southern 3/4th’s of the eastern half of the United States, late summer often becomes a challenging time for native pollinators to find an abundance of nectar and pollen. From zone 5b and southward; the winter and spring snow/rain recharges the soil and water table of which plants use of most of this water during late spring through mid summer. If mid summer rains are not plentiful enough, native wildflowers in average to drier soils begin restricting growth and bloom endurance/time periods to save enough water to sustain their life. North of Zone 5b, late summer soils can surely still dry out from spring and summer droughts; it’s just more likely to happen south of Zone 5b.

This time from late - mid summer through late summer; wet areas can support explosive bloom displays if native wildflowers are preserved or restored there. In the wild landscape, this represents sunny flood plain openings and mucky riverside depressions. Sunny wetlands, fens, and bogs also still have moist enough soil in the late summer to support an abundance of resources for native pollinators. You may notice that the majority of wetland and wet soil tolerant native wildflowers don’t bloom until late into the middle of the summer continuing into early fall (Late July through September in Zone 6 for example) while in drier land such as prairies; the majority of native prairie wildflowers bloom early summer into the beginning of late summer (June into early August in Zone 6 for example). In this way prairies and wetlands are almost two sides of 1 coin with prairies capitalizing on late spring through midsummer topsoil and subsoil moisture before wetter areas climax in bloom in the parched season of late summer when most prairie wildflowers focus more on survival and conservation of water in drier years.

Swamp Milkweed graces the foreground of a large Rose Swamp Mallow population in the background.

The further south you are Located, the more uniquely important wet areas Can become.

This phenomena of drier and average moisture soils drying out enough to stunt pollinator resources in late summer becomes more pronounced the further south you are in the eastern half of the United States. This is due to the northern regions having a shorter growing season and cooler climate which results in a larger overlap of wildflower blooms as they have less time “to wait” to bloom that far north if they are to complete their seed production before the frost of fall. With the cooler climate, wildflowers in average or drier soils north of Zone 5b still often can produce an abundance of nectar and pollen mid to late summer. South of zone 5b the growing seasons become longer, the climate is warmer, and late summer becomes harder on pollinators especially in late summer before temperatures drop off in early fall ushering in the end-season of blooms featuring Asters and Goldenrods.

While these wet habitats are crucial for pollinators active in late summer, you don’t need to have a river, creek, or wetland in your yard to support native pollinators in the late summer…

Swamp Thistle - Cirsium muticum beams in the foreground of Pearl’s Fen nature preserve in southwest Ohio.

Wet Areas in Neighborhoods and other Human Spaces

In the heavily human altered landscape of neighborhoods; drainage ditches and low areas that handle storm water can be converted into wetland-like patches of native wildflowers that love these conditions. Sometimes residents live in areas with high water tables and soggy soils that stay saturated throughout the spring and early summer which can have moist subsoil in the late summer to support native plants like those featured in the pictures of this article. These soils can often look dry on the surface by early to mid summer, but still hold an abundance of moisture or even standing water about 10 to 18 inches below the soil surface. Diverting and concentrating rainwater from gutter spouts to create rain gardens also can create the rare wet spot in a parched late summer landscape. In Commercial and Industrial Landscapes large parking lots often have retention ponds to slow storm water runoff from the parking lots and on the edges of these retention pond there’s often a margin to plant a native wet soil love wildflower border.

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A native vegetated stream near by the University of Kentucky, where high water flows in the winter and spring floods.

Installing Seed Mixes in Wet Areas with High Water Flows

In areas such as stream or riverbanks and storm water ditches; the moving water during high water periods present a unique challenge for installing native plants. Winter and Spring rains can rip away newly installed plugs or potted plants such as native shrubs if the current is strong enough. These Winter and Spring high water flows will also silt-over or scour away seed mixes installed in the fall season. For areas subjected to high water flows, you’ll need to seed - seed mixes in the spring after most of the winter and early spring high water flows have ended. Spring Seedings have been some of Indigeous Landscape’s most successful seedings, but only when the seed mix is pre-stratified through artificial means. Seeding in the spring means there will not be enough time for the seeds to naturally receive their cool moist stratification period that happens during the fall and winter seasons. This must be overcome by artificially stratifying your seed mix.

Artificially Stratifying your Seed Mix for a Spring Seeding

1. At a minimum; 30 days before you intend on seeding your seed mix: soak your seed with cold tapwater temperature water for about 4 to 6 hours.

2. Strain the seed from the water carefully, ensuring that smallest seeds don’t float out.

3. Mix the saturated seed with one parts seed to 2 or 3 parts coarse sand.

4. Place the seed mix in a plastic crate and place it outdoors on the surface of the soil on the Northside of a tall object such as a shed, house or detached garage where it gets no sunlight exposure.

5. Finally, cover up the crate, first with 6 to 8 inches of ice cubes on the sides and atop the crate. Then cover the ice with 10” to 18” inches of sand on both the sides and atop the crate. This will create a cool microclimate ideal for stratification.

After 14 days move the sand off of the top of the crate, replace the melted ice with fresh ice, and then put the sand back over the fresh ice. The sand will collapse when the ice has melted. After a minimum of 30 days of having begun this stratification process, the seed will be ready to apply to your site, but wait until the recommended temperature (noted below) low’s and high’s for a spring seeding. 

Most ideally, the crate of your seed mix should remain under ice and sand for 30 to 45 days for maximum germination potential. You can place a thermometer deep inside the sand pile near the crate and aim to keep it between 33 and 42 degrees. If it gets above 42 degrees in this interior, remove the sand and apply more ice then reapply the sand for insulation. If you remove the sand after the initial 14 days and the seed mix smells “funky” like its mildewing or molding, do not apply more ice as the saturation will promote more fungus development. Instead put the sand back in place and plan on applying it at the 30 day mark instead of the 40 or 45 day mark. We’ve used funky smelling seed mixes before that started to mildew or mold while being artificially stratified, and they’re surprisingly still very much effective at germinating exhibiting minimal seed loss from the fungus development. Still, if fungus develops, stop applying ice, use sand as insulation, and apply at the 30 day mark.

Installing Seed Mixes in Wet Areas without High Water Flow

With wet fields, pond-side seedings, and other wet areas that are simply poorly drained (high water table); there won’t be stream/river-like water flows so you can simply seed them in the fall after preparing your site. For those areas, you can use our instruction manual to prepare your site for a native seed mix here.

Great Blue Lobelia stealing the show with it’s blueish spiked flowers completed by Common Boneset (white).

Native Wildflowers for Supporting Native Pollinators in Wet Areas

These Native Plants for wet areas are native to much of the eastern half of the United States. To find out where they are native google search their scientific name + the word “Bonap” for a native range map.

Native Wildflower Species for Wet Area Pollinator Support

Spring to Midsummer Flowering

Marsh Marigold - Caltha palustris, Foxglove Beardtongue - Penstemon digitalis, Northern and Southern Blue Flag Iris species, Great Angelica - Angelica atropurpurea, Queen of the Prairie Filipendula rubra, Swamp Milkweed - Asclepias incarnata, Monkey Flower - Mimulus rigens, Wild Mint Mentha arvensis, Slender Mountain Mint - Pycnanthemum tenuifolium, American Lotus - Nelumbo lutea, Cup Plant - Silphium perfoliatum, Blue Vervain - Verbena hastata

Late Summer Flowering (When pollinators need wet area flower production the most.)

Arrowhead species - Sagittaria species, Water horehound - Lycopus americanus, Obedient Plant Species (Physostegia species), Cardinal Flower - Lobelia cardinalis, Great Blue Lobelia - Lobelia siphilitica, Prairie Dock - Silphium terebinthinaceum, Groundnut - Apios americana, Ironweed Species (Vernonia species) Wingstem - Verbesina alternifolia, Cut-leaf Coneflower - Rudbeckia laciniata, Orange Coneflower Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii, Hibiscus species, Meadow Beauty - Rhexia virginica, Common Sneezeweed - Helenium autumnale, Purple Headed Sneezeweed - Helenium flexuosum, Marsh Blazing Star Liatris spictata, Mistflower - Conoclinium coelestinum, Hollowstem Joe Pye Weed - Eutrochium fistulosum, Joe Pye Weed - Eutrochium maculatum, Common Boneset- Eupatorium perfoliatum, Orange Jewel Weed - Impatiens capensis, Tickseed Species - Bidens species, Tall Sunflower - Helianthus giganteus, Swamp Thistle - Cirsium muticum, Grassleaf Goldenrod - Euthamia graminifolia, Tall Goldenrod Solidago gigantea, Riddell’s Goldenrod Oligoneuron riddelli, Marsh Betony - Pedicularis lanceolata, Native Smartweeds (Native Persicaria species)

End of Summer/Early Fall Flowering

Various Aster species such as New England Aster - Aster novae-angliae, Swamp Aster - Aster puniceus. Various Goldenrod species such as Swamp Goldenrod - Solidago patula, Cananda Goldenrod - Solidago canadensis. Turtlehead - Chelone glabra, Pink Turtlehead Chelone obliqua, Swamp Sunflower - Helianthus angustifolius.

Buttonbush produces a great quantity of nectar and pollen judging by the frequency of density of pollinators using it.

Thicket Species for Supporting Wildlife and Pollinators in Wet Areas

Most thicket species bloom within the time period of early spring to early summer before seemingly giving way to midsummer through early fall Wildflower dominance when it comes to nectar/pollen production. So utilizing native thicket species helps to balance out seasonal nectar/pollen production. Thicket species also host unique insects consuming their vegetation that differ from those supported by eating native wildflower, sedge, and grass vegetation; diversifying the insect population. Thicket fruits/seeds also provide larger wildlife with food resources that native sedges, grasses, and wildflowers do not. We’ll provide a list of native thicket species that are good for the edges of wet areas where the soil transitions to better drained, and thicket species for directly in wet areas.

Thicket species for the edges of wet areas where the soil starts to become better drained: Red Chokeberry - Aronia arbutifolia, Black Chokeberry - Aronia melanocarpa, PawPaw - Asimona triloba, Musclewood - Carpinus caroliniana, Buttonbush - Cephalanthus occidentalis, Roughleaf Dogwood Cornus drummondii, American Hazelnut - Corylus americana, Beaked Hazelnut - Corylus cornuta, Sweet Crabapple - Malus coronaria, Southern Crabapple - Malus angustifolia, Prairie Crabapple - Malus ioensis, Ironwood - Ostrya virginiana, Ninebark - Physocarpus opulifolius, Cinquefoil - Potentilla fruticosa, Wild Plum species, Chokecherry - Prunus virginiana, Pasture Rose - Rosa carolina, Blackberry, Rapsberry, Dewberry - Rubus species, Staphylea trifolia - Bladdernut, Spicebush - Lindera benzoin, Prickly Ash - Zanthoxylum americanum

Thicket species for planting directly within wet areas: Amorpha fruticosa - False Indigo Bush, Silky Dogwood - Cornus amomum, Gray Dogwood - Cornus racemosa, Red Twig Dogwood - Cornus sericea, Winterberry Holly - Ilex verticillata, Swamp Rose - Rosa palustris, Climbing Rose - Rose setigera, Common Elderberry - Sambucus canadensis, Steeplebush - Spiraea tomentosa, Spicebush - Lindera benzoin in partial to full shade wet areas, Blueberry, Cranberry and other select Vaccinium species, Arrowwood Viburnum dentatum, Nannyberry - Viburnum lentago, and Native Willow species.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

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American Lotus

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Obedient Plant and Common Boneset

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Hollowstem Joe Pyeweed

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Obedient Plant and Joe Pyeweed

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Swamp Thistle

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Late Summer View within a Fen

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Late Summer Wet Areas

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Sneezeweed steals the Show

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Late Summer at Pearl's Fen

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Silky Dogwood Fruiting

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Arrowwood Viburnum Fruiting

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Elderberry Flowering

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Buttonbush Blooming

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False Wild Indigo in Bloom

Written by: Solomon Doe Author/OWner of Indigenous Landscapes

Learn About Golden Alexander and Heart-leaf Alexander

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A foreground of Golden Alexander with a native Fringe Tree in the background.

Golden Alexander (Zizia aurea) is a native carrot family plant that is partially shade tolerant as well as full sun tolerant. The long taproot allows for good drought tolerance within regions of at least 32” inches of rainfall annually. It's native to most of the northeast, southeast, and midwestern United States. The spring flowers attract small native bees and pollen foraging beetles primarily. After a long winter, Golden Alexander and it’s cousin Heart-Leaf Alexander (Zizia aptera) provide a subtle warm welcome to spring as they’re often the first herbaceous plants to bloom within grasslands, meadows, and savanna environments. They typically bloom a few weeks before Penstemon species, Baptisia species, Sand Coreopsis, and Spiderwort species.They could be considered a kind of cool-season wildflower as their foliage emerges early in the spring soon followed by the bloom period which lasts 2 to 3 weeks. The foliage of both species remains low to the ground throughout the summer into the fall before going into dormancy. Both Golden Alexanders have moderate grazing resistance to Deer and Rabbits. Heart-Leaf Alexander has higher shade tolerance than Golden Alexander, as it can be found in the dappled sunlight of broken canopy woodlands. Though Golden Alexander’s shade tolerance is not easily out done as it can persist in partially shaded Savanna environments. Golden Alexander also has a higher wet soil tolerance than Heart-Leaf Alexander while Heart-Leaf has a higher dry soil tolerance than Golden Alexander and both are very adaptable to gardens. Caterpillars of the butterflies Black Swallowtail (Papilio polyxenes asterius pictured on purple coneflower) and Ozark Swallowtail (Papilio joanae ) feed on the leaves and flowers while caterpillars of Papaipema rigida (Rigid Sunflower Borer Moth) bore through the stems.

These early blooming native wildflowers of the carrot family start out as small plants, but their ambition withholds a bright future in gardens, broken forests, savannas, and meadows. In native meadow's we've created ourselves, we've observed Golden Alexander increasing year by year, but not in an invasive manner. They reseed effectively and hold their ground well against most prairie/meadow plants.

Companion Plants: Penstemon species (Background), Gaillardia species, Butterflyweed (Foreground), Nodding Wild Onion (Foreground), Purple Coneflower (Background), Mountain Mint species, Lobelia species, Orange Coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida), Prairie Dock, Mistflower, Aromatic Aster, Obedient Plant

Germination Tips for Plugs: Soak the seed in cold tapwater for 24 hours, then cool-moist stratify for 40 to 55 days. Sow 1/8th inch below the soil level after stratification.

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Golden Alexander with reduced size due to meadow competition.

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Black Swallowtails rear their eggs on Golden and Heart-leaf Alexanders. They'll also host on non-natives in the carrot family.

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Beginning phases/instar of Black Swallowtail caterpillars.

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Golden Alexander Patch in evening setting sun light.

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Golden alexander in sunlight.

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Small native bees like this species are the most common pollinators of Golden Alexanders.

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A small caterpillar, using pieces of vegetation attached to its body as camouflage

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Milkweed Beetle feeding on Golden Alexander

Golden Alexander Zizia aurea reported native range.

Heart-leaf Alexander Zizia aptera reported native range.

Key for the Maps Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

Written by: Solomon Doe Author/OWner of Indigenous Landscapes

The Ripening Myth about Native Persimmons

2 to 3” wide Persimmons that all drop ripe in September in Zone 6.

There's a common repeated myth about Native Persimmons ( Diospyros virginiana ). It's that they require frost to finish ripening. The most important thing to understand about Persimmons in states north of Tennessee, Arkansas, and North Carolina is that many of the present persimmons are sourced from more southernly genetics. Persimmons of southern genetics when planted too far north do not mature their fruit properly. For example; persimmon trees that drop 100% of their crops in September and October fully ripe in Southwest Ohio are “on time” and follow the pattern of local wild occurring persimmons which by the way is before frost. The persimmons pictured were collected in early September, well before any frost, fully ripe. Persimmons with genetic origins in the deeper south often have green or half-orange colored fruits deep into September and October in the north. Many of these southern persimmons do not mature their fruit at all when planted up north, resulting in astringent (unripe) fruit that lingers on the branches into January. The same failed fruit maturity phenomena can be observed with northern origin vs southern origin Pecans and northern origin vs southern origin Passionflowers. Pecans can mature crops a bit north of Chicago region and in the east - Pennsyvania when genetics are of northern origin and Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) naturally grows as far north as New Jersey.

So for states in the northern portion of the native range of persimmons; if you find persimmons dropping to the ground in August, September, and early October then you know you've found a locally adapted persimmon. But if you find that the persimmons are still hanging onto the tree deep into the fall, it is likely a persimmon that was planted from southernly genetics or a seedling of a southern genetic persimmon. In the south these southern sourced trees have a longer growing season which allows them to fully mature their fruit before frost. When moved north the trees still grow their fruit as if they will have a long growing season to mature fruit - causing the phenomena of persimmons not dropping from the trees ripe and on time in the north. The misconception of persimmons needing frost is actually southern persimmons planted north of their origin - needing more growing season time to ripen their fruit. Frost or freezing doesn't actually change the ripeness of the fruit.

Learn more about Native Plant Agriculture by checking out our free online book here: https://lovenativeplants.com/npabook

The Traits and Values of Bur Oak - Quercus macrocarpa

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A short Educational ecology article written by Solomon Doe - Author/Owner of Indigenous Landscapes

View this article on a tablet, laptop, or screen larger than a phone screen to get the maximum quality view of the pictures.

The traits and values of Bur Oak - Quercus macrocarpa

The Bur Oak has one of the larger native ranges and is of the most adaptable native Oak trees (Quercus sp.) in the United States. They can turn open grasslands into tree dotted savannas. In regions with natural grasslands, they can also grow closer to form a woodland with a lush herbaceous understory. They’re able to grow out of drier rocky slopes, as well as compete in deep silty moist bottomland or alluvial soils. Periodic flooding, annual wildfires, seasonally-high water tables, alkaline soils; sand, silt, gravel, and clay...none of these conditions can by themselves; exclude the Bur Oak from growing successfully. While Bur Oaks planted in acidic soils most often thrive, naturally they are more frequently found in higher PH soils of over 6.5+ PH. The Bur Oak's thick bark develops at a young age allowing it to become quite fire resistant within less than a decade of growth. So if a grassland or savanna naturally went without a fire even for 6 to 10 years and new Bur Oak sapling could develop thick enough bark during that time to become a 150+ year old fixture within that landscape. These Savanna Bur Oaks form helps to support a wide diversity of plants and animals in comparison to pure grassland or pure forest, acting as an overlap of both ecosystems. For context, a grassland is a native grass, wildflower, and thicket dominated landscape with very few trees. A savanna is a grassland with some trees often growing in clusters as islands of trees within the grassland. A woodland is often described as 70% to 90% tree canopy coverage with a herbaceous understory commonly dominated by wildflowers. Forests are typically described as 90 to near 100% tree canopy coverage.

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Prominent Moth Caterpillars (Dantana species) body consuming Bur Oak leaves as a group. When you approach them, they perform a synchronized twitch to scare off or confuse predators.

The Immense Ecological Value of Oaks

Collectively Oaks are known to host over 500 different species of native moth/butterfly caterpillars. Our existing Oak species have been found in fossils dating back about 23 million years ago which is around the same time Grasslands evolved as an ecosystem. When people discuss the insect value of native plants the topics are usually centered around how many Lepidoptera (moth and butterfly) larvae the species within a genus can host or the variety of pollinators their flowers support. In actuality the ecological value of a native plant cannot be fully realized by only measuring these two categories. With trees, their wood and decaying leaves support native Beetle larvae and adult Beetles. Their leaves support various insects with the order of Orthoptera that features katydids, crickets, grasshoppers, and locusts. Ants tend to aphids and other sap sucking insects siphoning liquid from the vegetation. Underground various insects, bacteria, and fungi are interacting with the root systems. Wasps and Birds glean the vegetation for insects acting as natural controls to keep the trees from being over-consumed. Rodents seek out various tree seeds as primary foods sources and that energy is worked up into the food by various rodent predators. You could look toward most terrestrial orders of insects and connect the food chain from native plants up into insects and other small organisms; up further into larger animals.

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A typical acorn kernel size of a Bur Oak

The Native Plant Agricultural Value of the Bur Oak

The Bur Oak, like all Oaks, would benefit from a concerted effort to agriculturally evaluate and select for heavy biennially bearing trees or the rare annual bearing trees. Naturally Oaks and other nut bearing trees delay and concentrate heavy crop years to control the population of rodents that can destroy the majority of a year’s crop. Have “up years” and “down years” prevents rodent populations from being sustained at their maximum potential. But Oaks do have the biological capability to bear nuts annually or biennially if these qualities are selected for through breeding or selecting wild occuring bearers. This fact is demonstrated by the Swamp White Oak Cultivar “Buck’s Unlimited” which is an annual bearing Swamp White Oak selection. This cultivar selection of a wild occurring Swamp White Oak was found to annually bear good crops of acorns and its named “Buck’s Unlimited” is marketed to hunters wanting to plant acorn crops for deer. Compared to Most Hickories and Walnuts, Oaks invest very little defensive energy in their acorns outside of tannins which are an anti-nutrient that makes the nuts bitter. Acorn shells/husks are very thin, and with exception to the Bur Oak’s caps, acorn caps are most often small as well. The smaller investment of energy into defense, this likely gives Oaks an efficiency and bearing ability edge over most Hickories and Walnuts. Once more consistent bearing Oak species are selected, they will likely top all hickories, most pecans, and walnuts as far as calories produced per acre due to this high proportion of nutmeat vs. shell. This makes their potential value to Native Plant Agriculture very high when you also factor in their ecological value.

To learn how to make acorn flour out of acorns there’s many YouTube videos out there. Cold water leaching is the best method and retains the most nutrients in the resulting nut flour vs. hot water leaching. The flour is used similar to wheat flour, but creates a heavier and denser “bread” than what flour. Wheat flour is often used in recipes that include acorn flour to give it a lighter fluffier texture. Indigenous people’s across the world where Oaks are native used acorns as a staple crop of their diet by leaching the bitter tannins out of the nuts.

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A Bur Oak reaches over the street towards a stand of PawPaws in the fall. The Bur Oak twigs and leaves on the ground are from squirrels cutting the acorns down to the ground,

Neighborhood Applications of Bur Oak

In Neighborhoods, Bur Oak offers one of the widest spreading, shade giving - majestic canopies on the block. The thick bark houses numerous insects which can be evidenced by the amount of bark foraging birds that use Bur Oak. While the acorns are a mess to clean up for those who don’t value them, in yards of those who value them; Bur Oak acorns are both toys to the children and sustenance for the wildlife. Crafty households may turn the large acorns into flour for bread-like products. The fall color isn’t significant but the abstractly cut leaves give a rich dark green color throughout the summer. Oaks are one of the best trees to cool the temperature down of a neighborhood through allowing an Oak to get as large as it can away from buildings and power lines. Neighborhoods with underground utilities free of power lines are prime placement for Bur Oak and other Oak trees. Oaks create cool spots that greatly improve outdoor livability for humans in areas with hot summer environments. While they can cool down large areas, they’re aren’t ideal for placing too close to houses as they can develop to a size that can crush a house if they happen to fall. 40 feet of distance from houses and other valued buildings is typically sufficient for Bur Oak placement. Applicable to all hillside aspects; N,E,W, and S if the soil is at least 35 inches deep before hitting solid bedrock - or flatter ground. Height is 55’ to 80’. Wind Pollinated though some native bees collect pollen from Oak catkins in the spring. Shade Tolerance: 2/5

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Typical Bur Oak leaves in the fall.

Common Canopy Native Tree Associates of Bur Oak

The following species are commonly found growing near by Bur Oak and if you’ve identified a soil type that fits Bur Oak for your restoration; these trees will also fit in your reforestation project.

When landscapes aren’t historically maintained by fire creating fire tolerant savannas and woodlands; Bur Oak associates with species and in soils of 6.7 PH and higher into the alkaline range.

Forest Canopy Associates

Weakly Acidic to Alkaline Soil preferring Associates Ohio Buckeye - Aesculus glabra, Shumard Oak - Quercus shumardii,, Chinquapin Oak - Quercus muehlenbergii, Blue Ash - Fraxinus quadrangulata, Kentucky Coffee Tree - Gymnocladus dioicus, Shellbark Hickory - Carya laciniosa.

PH Generalists Associates: Bitternut Hickory - Carya cordiformis, Pecan - Carya illinoinensis, Black Maple - Acer nigrum, Sugar Maple - Acer saccharum, American Linden - Tilia americana, American Elm - Ulmus americana, Slippery Elm - Ulmus rubra, Hackberry - Celtis occidentalis, Black Walnut - Juglans nigra

Fire Maintained Savanna and Woodland Canopy Associates

Shellbark Hickory - Carya laciniosa, Bitternut Hickory - Carla cordiformis, Red Hickory - Carya ovalis, Shagbark Hickory Carya ovata, Red Oak - Quercus rubra, White Oak - Quercus alba, Shumard Oak - Quercus shumardii,, Chinquapin Oak - Quercus muehlenbergii, Blue Ash - Fraxinus quadrangulata

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A Bur Oak leaf with a slightly larger leaf margin than the one above. This is in the fall.

Propagation Tips: Collect Bur Oak acorns in the fall and outdoor cold moist stratify for the winter. There’s no need to remove the caps until the spring when they will easily fall off or you can remove them in the fall. Make sure your container has drainage for the rain, and rodent protection using hardware cloth to cove the top. Bury the container 3/4ths underground to protect from the coldest winter temperatures. Bur Oak acorns will start to root in mid to late winter even though they are technically a “White Oak” which typically root in the fall. So sow them early, by mid to late winter. Chicken wire exclosures will keep out squirrels, mice and chipmunk control or relocation may be required.

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The high surface area of the thick furrowed bark may promote more insect use compared to less textured bark Oaks. This bark is quite fire proof when it comes to surviving grassland fires.

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These Bur Oaks are going into fall color, which typically isn’t a fantastic display for Bur Oak.

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The husk of a Bur Oak acorn has fringe-like fibers around the edges of the cap. Most Oak species do not have this feature.

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Give Bur Oak a large width to spread out overtime in neighborhoods. If they’re out in the open, they’ll become wider than they are tall.

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Most Bur Oak dominated woodlands and savannas transition into forests once man-made fire stops maintaining them.

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Bur Oak dominated woodlands and savannas were a common ecosystem where Grasslands and Native Trees intermingled. This landscape was widely promoted by Indigenous People’s fire pre European contact.

Bur Oak Native Range Map

Key for the Map Above

Light Green = Reported to an herbarium for the county as native and wild occuring.

Teal = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present and introduced by man.

Yellow = Reported to an herbarium for the county as present but rare.

Green = Reported to an herbarium as present in the state.

Orange = Once reported to an herbarium as native but now considered extinct in that county.

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

Written by: Solomon Doe Author/OWner of Indigenous Landscapes

The traits and values of Ohio Buckeye and Yellow Buckeye

A short Educational ecology article written by Solomon Doe - Author/Owner of Indigenous Landscapes

View this article on a tablet, laptop, or screen larger than a phone screen to get a better view of the pictures.

Yellow Buckeye ( Aesculus flava ) is a PH generalist able to grow in alkaline as well as acidic soil whereas ( Aesculus glabra ) Ohio Buckeye specializes in soils of over 6.0 PH (weakly acidic) well into the alkaline range of 7.0+ PH. If you’re within the native range of both Ohio Buckeye and Yellow Buckeye you’re more likely to find Ohio Buckeye in near neutral to alkaline soils and Yellow Buckeye in Acidic soils. Yellow Buckeye is a true canopy tree, commonly reaching heights of over 70’ in a forest condition while Ohio Buckeye is more of a moderately shade tolerant midstory and edge tree that takes a canopy opening after trees fall; temporarily as other trees work on out-growing it again. Both species are very attractive to native bees when they bloom in mid spring, and they also attract the first hummingbirds to arrive from their northern migration. 

Ohio Buckeyes in the midstory already in bloom before the canopy trees have leafed out. Pawpaws and Mayapples represent the bottom layer of this wood edge.

The Buckeye blooms are followed by nuts that are sought out solely by rodents who have evolved to be able to withstand the toxins of buckeyes that act as chemical defenses. Indigenous People in regions of California perfected a method of making the California Buckeye (Aesculus californica) into an edible flour, and it is not well known if Eastern North American Indigenous tribes did the same with Yellow Buckeye or Ohio Buckeye. Their process leached out the toxins in the California Buckeyes that Buckeyes are known for. The nuts may or may not be edible using this Indigenous method for California Buckeye processing. The resulting nut flour would need to be lab tested for toxins to verify if the Indigenous People's method used on California Buckeyes also works on eastern Buckeye species and to what degree do they need to be leached for the nuts to become safely edible. There’s a youtube video from a 1961 University recording of this method. You can youtube search: Nisenan (Maidu) Buckeyes: California Indians processed wild buckeyes, healthy food, 1961 to find it. But do not do this with eastern buckeye species if you’re not going to get the nut flour tested for remaining toxins to verify the effectiveness of this method.

An Ohio Buckeye sits atop a Redbud with fading blooms.

Judging by Gray Squirrel preference - Yellow Buckeye is more palatable to widlife than Ohio Buckeye as Yellow Buckeyes are the first nuts taken in the late summer vs. Ohio Buckeye. The spiky or bumpy husk separates Ohio Buckeye from the smoother husk of Yellow Buckeye. In their maturity Yellow Buckeye has large flakes of bark while Ohio Buckeye bark remains more smooth closer to the apperance of a Beech tree’s bark. Insect Pollinated trees such as Buckeyes, Tulip Tree, Linden, Black Gum, and Persimmon are capable of pumping out far more pollen and nectar compared to most wildflowers. Including insect pollinated trees in your landscape is a great decision even if it’s just a single one as a specimen tree. An aesthetic aspect to consider is that Buckeyes drop their leaves as early as late summer in response to drought or drier soil conditions. This doesn’t happen every year but it happens often enough to degrade its aesthetic value if you would judge them for it. Buckeyes have evolved to leaf out very early and get a lot of photosynthesis work complete in the first half of the year and as a possible consequence of that they often drop their leaves earlier in the season than other native trees.

Yellow Buckeyes have a columnar shape to their canopy best described as the shape as rocket. Where as Ohio Buckeyes are shorter and have a more rounded shade to their canopy.

Both of these Buckeye species prefer moderate to higher moisture soils so stick to deep soils over 40” in depth before hitting solid bedrock. Fall color is often insignificant. These two buckeyes are applicable to cooler aspect hillsides facing NW, N, NE, or E or flatter ground. Not recommended for house cooling due to late summer leaf droppings. Yellow Buckeye is typically 50’ to 80’ tall in columnar shape while Ohio Buckeye grows 30’-45’ tall in a rounded shape. If you’re lacking space, you can possible go for the thicket species; Bottlebrush Buckeye. While its native range is limited, it will still attract a hoard of pollinators in mid summer while hosting many of the same insect species that the tree-form of buckeyes do. Red Buckeye also has a limited native range, but attracts hummingbirds with red colored buckeye flowers wherever planted.

Stunning Yellow Buckeye blooms in the spring time, at Spring Grove Cemetery in Southwest Ohio.

Propagation Tips: Seeds mature and fall to the ground in the late-summer into fall. Outdoor stratify immediately after collecting in late summer through the winter healed into the ground in a rodent protected pot (utilize hardware cloth to seal the pot). In the late; sow the nuts 2 inches deep in a rodent protected set up. We recommend building a chicken wire enclosure to keep out squirrels. You also may have to control mice and chipmunks if you are to keep them from digging up the nut in the spring. 

Shade Tolerances: Yellow Buckeye - 3.5/5. Ohio Buckeye - 3.5/5

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12 Year Old Ohio Buckeyes

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Swelling Buckeye Bud

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Ohio Buckeye Flower

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Yellow Buckeye Nuts

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Ohio Buckeye Nuts

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Yellow Buckeye Nuts in Husks

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Yellow Buckeye Mature Bark

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Yellow Buckeye Flowers

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

Written by: Solomon Doe Author/OWner of Indigenous Landscapes.

The Potential Unique Wildlife Value of Powerline Cuts

A power line cut in southwest ohio, August 28th 2025

A short Educational ecology article written by Solomon Doe - Author/Owner of Indigenous Landscapes

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This naturally established meadow is over 90% native wildflowers as opposed the typical dominate of invasive foreign vegetation brought in from other countries over recent centuries. Tall Ironweed is the prominent purple flower. The yellows and golds are composed of Cut-Leaf Coneflower, Cup Plant, Early Sunflower, Tall Goldenrod, and Wingstem. The scene was animated by Tiger Swallowtails Butterflies, Monarch Butterflies, Native Bees, Goldfinches, Native Sparrows, and some larger unidentified mammals moving on the ground level of the meadow that I happen to startle.

Cut-leaf Coneflower (gold) dominates the center strip of this photo with slightly larger flowers than wingstem (yellow).

In today’s age of invasive plant dominance, how did a meadow become 90% dominated by native plants without humans planting it? This field is adjacent to the Little Miami River in Southwest Ohio. River edges in late summer naturally contain all of the native wildflowers growing in this field, as the flooding and ripping action of high waters removes invasive shrubs from larger river flood plains creating a niche for these wildflower to persist in. So these wildflowers were already in the area at the original time this meadow was allowed to grow by humans and some of their seeds already existed in the seed bank of the soil. The other factor is this is a power line cut. Power line cuts are either mowed, sprayed, or bush hogged down to keep trees from ever interfering with power lines. The action of the utility company keeping this cut clear of trees, maintains an open habitat for these meadow sun-loving plants to thrive in. Indigenous People’s of America once managed open habitats like these with fire to support the plants and animals they relied on in a form of passive, sustainable agricultural land management. Today power line cuts are more so coincidental habitats, than intentional.

Ironweed steals the show with deep purple flowers in a late summer power line cut.

Power line cuts can be strategically managed to be prime native habitats if local native plant supporters can work with utility companies in an organized and effective manor to maintain native meadows under power lines. In addition to native meadows, native thicket species can also be maintained under power lines with cooperation of both civilian volunteers and the utility companies. Otherwise utility companies will typically use a combination of bush hogging and spraying every few years to kill off whatever vegetation is growing their; native or non-native to prevent any future possibility of vegetation interference with the power lines.

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We have an instruction manual for creating native meadows available on this website you’re currently on, along with other free educational resources if you’re interested in fostering biodiversity on your property. Any area with at least 3 hours of direct sunlight per day can support a native meadow, but keep in mind local ordinances laws when choosing your placement. Backyards are often the best place for native meadows vs. front yards in your average neighborhood setting. You can find these educational resources at the bottom of this web page.

Native Plants in this post: Tall Ironweed Vernonia gigantea (purple), Cut-leaf Coneflower Rudbeckia laciniata (Gold), Tall Goldenrod Solidago altissima (Gold), Wingstem Verbesina alternifolia (yellow), Joe Pyeweed Eutrochium fistulosum (pink), and Early Sunflower Heliopsis helianthoides (gold).

When considering planting a native plant, always google search the scientific name aka latin name with the word “bonap” to look up its native range as reported by country records submitted to herbariums. If the plant is native within 100 miles of your location it will be more ecologically applicable than plants native further away. The further away a plant is native, often, the less ecologically applicable it becomes.

To view the video below at good picture quality, make sure the settings on the YouTube video below have the highest quality selected by clicking the “gear” symbol and selecting 2160p and then click the full-screen button shaped like a square.

To view the video above at good picture quality, make sure the settings on the YouTube video below have the highest quality selected by clicking the “gear” symbol and selecting 2160p and then click the full-screen button shaped like a square.

Written by: Solomon Doe Author/OWner of Indigenous Landscapes

Butterflyweed being pollinated by Zebra Swallowtails (Video)

Butterflyweed, Butterfly Milkweed blooming with Zebra Swallowtail Butterflies.

Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa) is aptly named - its high nectar production and bright color attract many types of butterflies. In this video there are 3 Native Butterfly species, can you name them? The most numerous of them all in this video are the Zebra Swallowtails which the butterfly lays its eggs on Pawpaw, and its caterpillar stage of life feeds on the leaves PawPaw. Being a species of milkweed, it is a host plant for the Monarch and Queen butterflies in addition to specific moth species. While it can grow well in moderate moisture conditions, it’s best adapted to drier soils where plants are shorter and it can compete well for sunlight. In pollinator gardens it’s best used as a foreground plant on the edge of the planting. Southern and Western Oriented full sun exposed slopes are excellent places to establish Butterflyweed.

Native/Indigenous Companion Plants for Butterflylweed: Downy Wood Mint, Sand Coreopsis, Calico beardtongue, Foxglove Beardtongue, Rudbeckia hirta, Rudbeckia fulgida, Tennessee Coneflower, Pale Purple Coneflower, Purple Coneflower, Eastern Prickly Pear, Early Goldenrod, Nodding Onion, White Prairie Clover, Purple Prairie Clover, Slender Mountain Mint, Long-headed Coneflower, Hoary Vervain, Mistflower, Rough Blazing Star, Aromatic Aster, Smooth Blue Aster, Dwarf Goldenrod, Little Bluestem, Prairie Dropseed

Germination Tips for Plugs: Cold-Moist Stratify the seed for 30 to 40 days and then sow 1/10th of an inch below the surface.

Video by: Bean Native Nursery at 1210 Hedgerow Rd, Felicity, OH 45120

Commentary by: Indigenous Landscapes

Protecting and Establishing Native Trees, Shrubs and Thicket Species

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Picture: Young American Hazelnut shrubs in spring with their leaves protected from deer grazing.

In the United States; wherever Wolves and Mountain Lions have become rare or absent, deer populations are at unnaturally high population densities. Whether planting on large scale rural land, park land, or in your front/back yard, there’s a high likelihood deer will evaluate your native plants, mostly through their noses, to determine their palatability. This part 1. post focuses on helping you establish native trees and shrubs effectively through protecting them from deer. Our Part 2. post will provide things you can do to increase the growth rate/establishment rate of native trees and shrubs.

Plants like Speciebush, Ninebark, Pawpaw, Black Aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) have high deer grazing tolerance (pictured below) which means there are chemicals in the leaves of the plant that make them unpalatable to deer. Other plants like American Hazelnut, Native Crabapples, and Winterberry Holly have lower deer grazing tolerance. They may have been moderately tolerant when deer populations were regulated by a wide abundance of natural predators. But in this modern day condition of unnaturally high deer population densities; some native plants can get completely defoliated by deer grazing, preventing them from growing or establishing.

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Aronia

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Alternate Leaf Dogwood

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Ninebark

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Spicebush Hedge

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Here’s a solution to your Deer issues. For all native trees and shrubs, put a welded wire fence around them. Even though some native trees and shrubs don’t require them for deer grazing protection; the welded wire fences also protect against Buck rubbing which greatly damages the bark and living tissue (Cambium) of native trees and shrubs. Bucks rub young native trees and shrubs to sharpen their antlers, rubbing off the velvet layer to prepare for mating season combat with other bucks.

Large hardware stores like Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes sell rolls of 50 feet to 100 feet lengths of 4 feet tall welded wire fencing. Deer graze up to a height of around 4 feet, so these fences protect the native trees and shrubs from grazing fully within the first 4 feet. At that point the Native Tree or Shrub should out grow the deer grazing line and grow upward above the fence. A couple of years of growth over the deer grazing line of 4 feet, you may want to remove the fence and reuse on other new plantings. You can usually do this safely, but the trunks may still need fencing protection from Buck Rubbing. If you can tolerate the fence aesthetic, it’s best just to leave the cages on for a full 5 to 8 years allowing the native tree/shrub to get big enough to withstand deer grazing and buck rubbing. If you really don’t like the silver fencing aesthetic, the big box stores also offer the same fencing in Black or Green. Though the color coated welded wire fencing costs more, it will become more invisible in the landscape aesthetically.

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Welded Wire Fencing

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Rebar

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Protected Fenced Prunus virginiana

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Wire Cutters

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About 9.5 feet length of the 50 feet or 100 feet roll of welded wire fencing, will yield roughly a 3 feet wide diameter, circled fence. So a 50 foot roll will yield 5 fences and an 100 foot roll will yield between 10 to 11 3 foot diameter circled fences. Per foot, the 100 feet rolls are always cheaper than the 50 feet rolls.

Keep in mind, you can reuse these fences for the next 25 years. A 4 feet diameter is best for wide spreading shrubs like American Hazelnut, but plants that shoot upward like a tree, just need a 2 foot diameter circled fence with a length of 6.5 foot length of welded wire fence to be well protected. The 4 Prunus virginiana (Thicket Cherry) pictured above have closer to a 2 foot diameter, 6.5 foot length of welded wire fencing because they shoot upwards into a small tree. Thread a 2 or 1.5 foot long piece of rebar through the bottom rungs of the welded wire fence before hammering it halfway into the ground to support the fence. All of these materials are reusable long-term, and available at the big box stores such as Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes.

How to Close the Welded Wire Fence

To close the welded wire fence, watch the video above. You must learn how to close the welded wire fence before cutting them pieces from the 50 or 100 feet rolls. Alternatively you could close the fence with uv resistant zipties.

Watch the Video below to see how to establish Native Trees/Shrubs - The Mat (in the video) used around the Plant is important!

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Eastern Redbud Plant Profile and Appreciation

Redbud trees (Cercis canadensis) reach 15-25 ft. tall and provide one of the most stunning displays of native spring blooms. The bright pink flowers are situated directly along the trunk and branches of the Redbud, unlike other flowering trees who hold their blooms out with a small leafstalk called a petiole. Redbuds, along with other early-blooming thicket species, fuel the newly emerged Queen Bumblebees as they begin to build their colonies for the coming year. They also attract carpenter bees, and other solitary native bees. Their main value ecologically is being a powerhouse for attracting native bees in the spring, particularly on days above 65 degrees and at least somewhat sunny.

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Zebra Swallowtail on Redbud

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Tufted Titmouse on Redbud

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Bumble Bee on Redbud

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Young Redbud Trees

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Baltimore Oriole on Redbud

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Chickadee on Redbud

The Eastern Redbud naturally grows on stream bank edges, prairie edges, open woodlands, wood edges, canopy gaps within forests, and savanna ecosystems. It needs partial to full-sun to thrive, and fits well up against the sides of 1 or 2 story homes. When using redbuds for invasive plant removal during replantings you can utilize its ability to grow out of rocky dry, or moist soil, all the same. It will seed itself around over time, as native pollinators help it bear thin bean pods through the frenzy of pollination that occurs in April, as long as you initially plant at least 2 to cross-pollinate each other. If you’re inexperienced, redbud is a good beginners’ plant. Squirrels will eat some the pods in August, before tree-nut crops begin ripening.

The tree naturally hollows out fairly quickly, over the course of 25-35 years, providing nooks and crannies for wildlife to live inside. 2 rules of thumb, give redbuds at least 4 hours of sunlight and don’t plant this tree in wetlands, it doesn’t thrive in long-term saturated soils. The actual base of the tree can easily live for over 35 years, by pruning the old-quickly decaying wood back to the main leaders allowing new heartwood and sapwood on the branches to develop. Otherwise the original trunks will fall apart after 30 to 40 years on average as a very quickly growing and climaxing small tree.

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Redbud Flowers

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Old Redbud Tree

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Redbud Seed Pods

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Old Redbud

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Cauliflory style blooms on the trunk

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Native Plums look great with Redbuds

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Atheistically, the best thicket species to plant with Redbuds are native Plums as they get about the same size and they bloom at the same time of spring providing a contrast of pink blooms and white blooms (from native plums).

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Late April - 3 now in bloom Native Plants (Aronia, Golden Alexander, Flowering Dogwood)

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Aronia melanocarpa - Black Aronia - Chokeberry attracting small, solitary native bees.

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Black Aronia aka Black Chokeberry (Aronia Melanocarpa) - this native thicket species ranges from 4 feet to 10 feet tall depending on soil/climate/average rainfall. Because it blooms in mid-spring it supplies early emerging native bees as well as feeding Queen Bumblebees as they raise their first set of Worker Bees who are in their larvae stage. Because the fruit doesn't taste amazing, I refer to it as a medicinal fruit for humans or wildlife food. The medicinal effects of Aronia for humans are well scientifically documented. The nearly off the chart levels of anti-oxidants and other phytochmeicals (chemicals produced by plants) have shown to have positive effects on blood sugar levels, blood pressure, anti/preventative-cancer effects, Anti-inflammatory effects and more. In my household, I've gotten my spouse to use a tablespoon of Aronia fruit powder in their smoothies 5 days a week which has decreased their plantar fasciitis pain by 90% and slowed progressing eczema symptoms. Google the science of Aronia berries for more info! P.S. the fruit are also beloved by native birds and native mammals.

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Aronia melanocarpa Shrub in Bloom

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Aronia M. Flowers

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Aronia Fruit

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Close up of Aronia Native Bee

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Aronia Flower Profile

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Mature Aronia Thicket

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Fringe Tree and Golden Alexander

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Milkweed Bug on Golden Alexander

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Golden Alexander under Meadow Competition

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Solitary Small Native Bee on Golden Alexander

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Golden Alexander and Heart-Leaf Alexander (Zizia species) - these early blooming native wildflowers of the carrot family start out as small plants, but their ambition withholds a bright future in gardens, broken forests, savannas, and meadows. In native meadow's we've created ourselves, we've observed Golden Alexander increasing year by year, but not in an invasive manner. They reseed effectively and hold their ground well against most prairie/meadow plant. The early blooming attracts mostly small spring emerging native bees. Both Golden Alexanders have moderate grazing resistance to Deer and Rabbits. Heart-Leaf Alexander has higher shade tolerance than Golden Alexander, as it can be found in the dappled sunlight of broken canopy woodlands. Though Golden Alexander’s shade tolerance is not easily out down as it can persist in partially shaded Savanna environments. Golden Alexander has a higher wet soil tolerance than Heart-Leaf Alexander while Heart-Leaf has a higher dry soil tolerance than Golden Alexander though both are very adaptable to gardens. Caterpillars of the butterflies Black Swallowtail (Papilio polyxenes asterius) and Ozark Swallowtail (Papilio joanae ) feed on the leaves.

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Flowering Dogwood

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Cedar Waxwing Eating Flowering Dogwood Fruit

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Flowering Dogwood Growing on Wood Edge

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Pollinators on Flowering Dogwood

Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) - Flowering Dogwoods are one of the more well known native plants and are fairly available in the nursery industry throughout its native range. If the cultivars are the only ones available to you, then choose two different cultivars so that they can cross pollinate successfully to bear the high quality fruit which ripens in the fall and is a favorite for wildlife. Flowering Dogwoods bloom soon after Eastern Redbuds and Native Plums bloom. Naturally they would occur in forest canopy openings, broken/open woodlands, savanna thickets, and Eastern prairie thickets. In modern times the most common naturally occurring populations are found on edges of woods, but due to the uprising of invasive shrubs and invasive vines colonizing wood edges this niche is becoming less and less viable for Flowering Dogwood and other native thicket species. In the residential landscape, they grow well in full-sun within soil in neighborhoods at least 30 to 40 years in age. Newer developed neighborhoods have more recently disturbed soils that haven't had time to recover, and Flowering Dogwoods may struggle in those poor soil conditions. If planting in newer neighborhoods, choose to plant them on the Eastern or Western side of a building such as a detached garage or home. This will give them a part day's worth of sun which will benefit their health. In neighborhoods over 30 years in age, they'll likely thrive in full-sun within their native range and especially if during historically bad droughts they are given a couple of inches of water every 10 days or so.

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To fast track your Native Plant Restoration knowledge, consider one of our native plant educational books here: Indigescapes.com/Ourbooks - the shipping is cheaper if all 3 books are purchased in one order as opposed to separate orders.

Identifying and Propagating the Native - Red Mulberry (Morus rubra)

Disclaimer: This article is not about saving the absolutely weedy invasive plant known as White Mulberry (Morus alba). The native Red Mulberry is much less aggressive, and does not invade the landscape or ecosystem.

Red Mulberry (Morus rubra) is one of the most widely documented native plants which would make one think it’s one of the most common native plants. In actuality many of the documentations are likely the invasive White Mulberry (Morus alba) introduced in the 1800’s. White Mulberry epicenters are nearly always at metropolitans where the invasive trees were established first for the Mulberry silkworm hosts for the production of silk fiber. White Mulberry, which has a red fruit like Red Mulberry, now pervades various landscapes and environments throughout the U.S. Red Mulberry is much less common, and may suffer from hybridization where climate promotes the flowering of each species overlapping. In the Midwest and Uppersouth White Mulberry blooms weeks before Red Mulberry which lowers the frequency of hybridization. The same case may repeat in other regions. The easiest way to tell the difference between Red Mulberry and White Mulberry is the leaves. Red Mulberry leaves are not reflective or glossy and they are rough to the touch whereas White Mulberry are glossy, more glabrous and smoother to the touch.

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Large Red Mulberry

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Red Mulberry Leaves

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Large Red Mulberry

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Leaf Variability

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Young Red Mulberry

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Red Mulberry Leaves

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The first 4 photos in the above gallery are from Horticulturist Jimmy Strathmann in Indiana.

In neighborhoods Red Mulberry has many opportunities to fit into the landscape as a medium sized tree popular with wildlife and humans because of its berry production. Due to its smaller size, it’s even safe to plant Red Mulberry on the West and East sides of houses to cool down the walls. Its limbs will rarely get to the size and height needed to become a threat to falling on a roof. In Native Plant Agriculture Red Mulberry is both a fruit crop and a leaf crop. They can be coppiced to control height, and be used as a perennial leaf crop in native agricultural systems. The large edible leaves are best cooked if they’re to be eaten in higher quantities, and they lend themselves to wrapping other foods inside of them. Red Mulberry is a PH Generalist able to grow in acidic soils as well as alkaline soils though it is more dominant in acidic soils. The fruit ripening overlaps with the time that Serviceberries are ripening so if you’re trying to create less competition for serviceberry fruits - planting clusters of Red Mulberry will help spread the competition out. Plant at least in groups of 3, 4 or 5 so as to heighten the chance that you’ll plant at least 1 female and 1 male tree as males do not create fruit. Recommended as a house cooling tree. Applicable to all hillside aspects in the northern portion of its range; N,E,W, and S if the soil is deep - or flatter ground. Applicable to NE, N, NW, and E in the southern portion of its range - or flatter ground. Height is 30’ to 45’ typically, but up to 55’. Wind Pollinated.

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Young Red Mulberry

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Fall Web Worms on Red Mulberry

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Scarlet Tanager eating Red Mulberries

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Red Mulberry Sapling

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Red Mulberry Saplings

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Red Mulberry Saplings

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Saving Red Mulbberries

In our ecosystems, Red Mulberry is being replaced by invasive White Mulberries (Morus alba). In urban forests, White Mulberry outnumbers Red Mulberry 1 to 1,000 in most cities and suburbs. Where we find the true Red Mulberry is within large suburban or rural county and state parks, or nature preserves on wood edges and large forest canopy openings. Gaining Permission from these entities is ideal for collecting fruit to propagate and repopulate Red Mulberry. Once you’ve found Red Mulberry, observe it’s bloom period, which should be after White Mulberry. If in your region it blooms weeks after White Mulberry, they’re more likely to be unhybridized. In our experience, we’ve only seen 1 single tree that looked to show hybrid expressions of Red Mulberry and White Mulberry so it is likely less common than reported. Whether you’re most interested in the edible fruit and leaves for human food production or you’re interested in preserving pure Red Mulberry and supporting wildlife - propagating this tree is a worthy project. When planting Red Mulberry, do your best to removal all nearby White Mulberry - even if they’re in your neighbors yard at least attempt to get permission to remove. You can also girdle them and apply an herbicide to the girdle ring if it isn’t in danger of falling on structures. Review the following propagation guide when you’ve found a fruiting Red Mulberry.

Propagation Tips: Collect fruit around the same time as serviceberry ripens in early summer. Crush fruit in hand, and allow the pulp to decompose within sand or a soil medium over the summer and fall outdoors within a container with drainage. Continue winter stratification in that container before sowing the seeds with the sand or soil medium in the spring compressed onto the surface. With proper pot size (.5 gallon or 1 gallon) and fertilizer they should reach at least 4 feet as first year saplings.

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Why and How to Establish a Patch of Rattlesnake Master

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Rattlesnake Master (Eryngium yuccifolium) is a perennial prairie plant in the carrot family (Umbelliferae) with striking blue-green-silver foliage and a unique sphere-shaped bloom. Rattlesnake Master can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, from seasonally saturated to moist or drier rocky or sandy soil. Being a prairie plant, Rattlesnake Master requires at lest 6 hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. The flowers attract a large variety of pollinators including long-tongued bees, short-tongued bees, wasps, flies, butterflies, skippers, moths, and beetles. Rattlesnake Master is sure to attract pollinators you’ve never seen before.

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Its dominant root system makes it best planted in meadows or mass plantings where it's given good root competition from its neighbors. Otherwise it tends to get too big and floppy in pollinator gardens with less competition. When you install a native plant garden; accompanying the individual potted plants with a fall-seeded native seed mix will provide enough nutrient and water competition in the soil (root competition) to keep the plants upright and reduce flopping. This is a long lived plant in prairie communities and prairie plantings, capable of lasting long into grass domination, like Slender Mountain Mint. Grass domination often happens when there are no grazers grazing the prairie grass (Bison, Elk). Rattlesnake master is has good permanence and can survive when most wildflowers have succumbed to grass dominance. The texture and unique colored leaves makes it somewhat golden winter color, forming a valuable summer and winter aesthetic.

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Pollinator Garden Positioning of Companion Plants

The following paragraph will help you position companion plants with Rattlesnake Master in Pollinator Gardens. In front should translate to being planted on the Southeast, South, or Southwest side of Rattlesnake Master. Behind translates to being planted on the Northeast, North, Northwest side of Culver’s Root. And beside is self-explanatory - East or West side of Rattlesnake Master

Blue Wild Indigo and White Wild Indigo - behind, Golden Alexander - beside or in front, Sand Coreopsis - in front, Penstemon species - in front, beside, or behind, Butterflyweed - in front or beside, Yellow Crownbeard - behind, Nodding Onion - in front, Purple Coneflower - beside, in front, or behind, Slender Mountain Mint - in front or beside, Royal Catchfly - beside or behind, Hoary Vervain - in front, beside, or behind, Rudbeckia fulgida - in front, beside, or behind, Prairie Dock - behind or beside, Mistflower - behind, in front, or beside, Dwarf Goldenrod - beside or in front, Showy Goldenrod - behind or beside, Aromatic aster - beside or in front, Obedient Plant - behind, Little bluestem - in front, beside, or behind, prairie dropseed - in front, beside or behind.

Germination Tips for Plugs: Soak in iced tap water for 36 hours, and cold stratify for 50 to 60 days then surface sow - compress into surface or burry 1/8th inch.

Creating a Patch of Rattlesnake Master

To create a patch of Rattlesnake master purchase 1 to 2 ounces of seed online. Work in the summer to prepare the area you'd like to establish by clearing the vegetation completely by fall using your preferred method. Mix the Rattlesnake Master seed with 1/4th ounce of Biennial Black Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) seed. This short-lived Black Eyed Susan will act as a ground cover (next year). This amount of seed is good for an 100 to 500 square foot patch/bed. Seed both species together over your prepared ground in late fall. Use a half 5 gallon bucket of dry sand to carry the seed helping you to spread it evenly over the plot. Both species will vegetate the land the following spring/summer as seedlings. Feel free to add seed from the companion plant list above to make the patch more diverse.

You can fast track your native plant learning with one of our books at Lovenativeplants.com/ourbooks - our next book sale opens July 29th, 2023 Saturday.

Learn about Culver's Root ( Veronicastrum virginicum )

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Culver’s Root in a Native Meadow Installation

Culver's Root (Veronicastrum virginicum) is a perennial plant of prairies and savannas that rises to 3 to 5 feet tall when mature; depending on soil moisture, surrounding competition, and sunlight exposure. It produces wand-like flower spikes that attract bumblebees, mason bees, green metallic bees, masked bees, sphecid wasps, butterflies, moths, syrphid flies and beetle species. In bloom, similar to Rattlesnake master - it attracts a very wide variety of pollinators. Watching both Rattlesnake Master and Culver’s Root in bloom is a sure way of encountering pollinators you’ve never seen before. This plant is adapted to seasonally wet soils as well as seasonally dry soils with intermediate drought tolerance.

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Culver's Root is subject to little mammal grazing and doesn't commonly suffer greatly from insect damage. This is a long-lived species that can survive to some extent in prairies with minimal disturbance (un-grazed prairies). The whorled, upright foliage gives this plant an excellent form in the summer prairie garden or along trails in meadow plantings. The architecture alone of Culver’s root inside or outside of bloom makes it worthy of it’s pricey tag in seeds per ounce. Also the seeds per ounce is high which makes the price per seed lower than most species. If lacking the funds to seed it at a good ratio (expensive seed), then grow 10 to 40 plugs of it per half acre to strategically insert into your meadow planting. In pollinator gardens they assume a moderately large width in their maturity; reducing the amount you have to plant to create a good aesthetic effect. 

COMPANION PLANTS OF CULVER’S ROOT

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Blue Wild Indigo

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White Wild Indigo

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Ohio Spiderwort

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Common Milkweed

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Early Sunflower

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Wild Bergamot

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Wild Senna

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Royal Catchfly & Grey Headed Coneflower

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Prairie Dock

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Rosinweed

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Whorled Rosinweed

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Tall Coreopsis

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Eutrochium maculatum

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Tall Boneset

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Common Sneezeweed

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Purple Headed Sneezeweed

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New England Aster

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Tall Ironweed

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Pollinator Garden Positioning of Companion Plants

The following paragraph will help you position the above pictured companion plants with Culver’s Root in Pollinator Gardens. In front should translate to being planted on the Southeast, South, or Southwest side of Culver’s Root. Behind translates to being planted on the Northeast, North, Northwest side of Culver’s Root. And beside is self-explanatory - East or West side of Culver’s Root.

Blue Wild Indigo & White Wild Indigo - beside or in front. Ohio Spiderwort - beside or in front. Common Milkweed - beside or behind. Early Sunflower - beside or behind. Wild Bergamot - beside or behind. Wild Senna - behind. Royal Catchfly - in front. Grey headed Coneflower - beside or behind. Prairie Dock - in front. Rosinweed - behind or beside. Whorled Rosinweed - behind. Tall Coreopsis - behind. Eutrochium maculatum - behind. Tall Boneset - behind or beside. Common Sneezeweed - in front. Purple Headed Sneezeweed in front. New England Aster - beside or behind. Tall Ironweed - Behind.

Germination Tips for Plugs: Cold moist Stratify for 30 - 40 days then surface sow - compress into surface of medium/soil when sowing.

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